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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Hi
I have been thinking about building a single ended triode amplifier with F2a output tubes, using ECC40 as the preamp tube and EL95 as a cathode follower as the driver. So, I'd ask what you think about the following schematic: ![]() I needed voltage amplification of about 60 to the grid of the F2a, so I needed to use both sections of the ECC40. F2a's input capacitance is quite high at 20kHz thanks to the Miller effect, about 150pF so I thought it would be better to use a cathode follower to drive the tube. To reduce the significance of the input capacitance of the second section of the ECC40, ECC40a's anode resistance is only 22k. I divided it to two parts, because otherwise I would have got around 160 voltage amplification which is a bit much. The output transformer will be a 10W Edcor GXSE 2.5k->6 ohms treansformer, which will appear as a 3.3k load to the tube when a 8 ohm speaker is used. The current of ECC40a is around 3.8mA, and ECC40b around 1.4mA and EL95's current is about 10mA. And here's the load line of the F2a, I0 and Vb is 80mA and 375V, max power should be about 5.1W at 2.7% second harmonic distortion:
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bulgaria
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Very long way to great sound....
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leuven
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I wouldn't insist on using ecc40 because, as you illustrate, it forces you to insert three stages before the finals which is really a bad idea. I'ld start from scratch, look at the requirements a single stage should have to drive the f2a's, and proceed from there. As a side note, why use such high coupling cap values (even presuming you mean 0,47µ)?
Good luck, Simon |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Brisvegas
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Given the Euro theme, a single C3g (pentode or triode mode) would do the job admirably. Since Vk-g1 for the F2a is only around 14v, a C3m would also work well.
Also, you have shown a 22uF cap in series with a 220uF cap on the F2a cathode. I am not really sure what you are trying to achieve here: a single 220uF would probably be more appropriate.
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Au rutti wop-bop-a-loom-bop-a-boom-bam-boom - Richard Penniman |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Well, I just noticed that Vb for the F2a should be 350V, not 375V..
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#6 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Oh, and the 47uF capacitors are probably a bit large, but it shouldn't cause any problems. 4.7uF should probably be fine (impedance @20Hz -j1.7k) but .47uF is probably too small (impedance @20Hz -j17k) On the other hand, it's true that the input impedance of a tube is very large at low frequencies, so 0.47uF should be fine, too. Quote:
that 22uF 'cap' is a 22ohm resistor. |
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Leuven
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Quote:
Quote:
Simon |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Frankfurt
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Hello Joku,
I would use the C3m in pentode mode. Operating point as in the datasheet specified. With RL=12K and Av=gm x RL you would have a gain of about 72. Unfortunatley, you would need a higher B+ for the C3m. You could either use a second supply or why not use a anode choke parallel to the RL? At least that´s what I´ve planned until I decided to use the F2a in tetrode mode. Kind regards, Martin |
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#9 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2009
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Anyway, I got the idea to use the ECC40 as it seems to be very linear, at least according to this page:
http://www.geocities.com/la1zka/hifi/distortion.html But it would be still better to use a single pentode rather than ECC40s and a cathode follower? On the other hand, I could use a 1:2 matching transformer at the input (I'll probably have to use a matching transformer at input anyway to ensure that there is no galvanic connection to the ground), and then a single ECC40 or CV2543 and a cathode follower? |
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