Lynn Olson has put forward the tv damper diodes not only as an alternative to rectifier tubes but as a first choice. (Low noise, high current etc.) I have noticed that there are quite a number of these things...6CJ3, 6AU4, etc, etc.
What are the european types for this? Anyone in particular that has all the right stuff to be used in a future tube project of mine?
Ie..ample supply of these things, high current delivery...etc.
And a question for dutch tube fans...What are tv damper diodes called in dutch. Frank??
I thought about "stabilisatie diodes
" but that gets very few hits on google.
Regards,
Bas
What are the european types for this? Anyone in particular that has all the right stuff to be used in a future tube project of mine?
Ie..ample supply of these things, high current delivery...etc.
And a question for dutch tube fans...What are tv damper diodes called in dutch. Frank??
I thought about "stabilisatie diodes
" but that gets very few hits on google.Regards,
Bas
Bas,
The topcaps are the cathodes. In their original application one could draw an arc of a few mm just using a screwdriver tip, a few KV was there!
The great thing about them is the heater to cathode insulation. It's rated in KV! That means you can run any number in series or parallel, off the same heater supply.
The insulation is a ceramic sleeve, hence the slow warmup time.
Hey, I'm starting to thinl about them myself!
Cheers,
The topcaps are the cathodes. In their original application one could draw an arc of a few mm just using a screwdriver tip, a few KV was there!
The great thing about them is the heater to cathode insulation. It's rated in KV! That means you can run any number in series or parallel, off the same heater supply.
The insulation is a ceramic sleeve, hence the slow warmup time.
Hey, I'm starting to thinl about them myself!
Cheers,
845 Project
Bas,
Thank you for your interest
I had a spell of no attention to it, for various reasons.
It is such a shame that it still not reassembled, the chassis having been to the anodizers and back.
At this moment (if I can drag myself from the computer) I'm re-wiring the amp chassis underside.
I am thinking of upgrading the power supply. On Sunday I'm going to the NVCF where I may get some bit's to do this.
And yes, you guessed it, I'm thinking of changing the rec's to damper diodes!
What a hash!
Cheers,
Bas,
Thank you for your interest
I had a spell of no attention to it, for various reasons.
It is such a shame that it still not reassembled, the chassis having been to the anodizers and back.
At this moment (if I can drag myself from the computer) I'm re-wiring the amp chassis underside.
I am thinking of upgrading the power supply. On Sunday I'm going to the NVCF where I may get some bit's to do this.
And yes, you guessed it, I'm thinking of changing the rec's to damper diodes!
What a hash!
Cheers,
Bas,
I use PY500A's and think they're fine. I bought some surplus 40Vct toroids off ebay for jam to use as the filament supplies. BTW I paid about $US7 for a box of 50 tubes. The postage cost more than they did.
They also have a nice slow warm up, and even using them in a transmitter tube supply, I doubt they'll arc. I'm pulling about 250mA continuous through them and they don't seem bothered by it. Gintaras (KW Tubes) also has some EY500A's if you want to use a 6V heater, or there's the Svet 6D22S.
I use 6CJ3/6CH3 tube in lower voltage/current supplies too, mainly to balance my socket supply and useage. In total I have over a hundred of these tough little beasts, for a total cost including 40 various new sockets and 20 topcaps of less than a NOS Mullard GZ.
I use PY500A's and think they're fine. I bought some surplus 40Vct toroids off ebay for jam to use as the filament supplies. BTW I paid about $US7 for a box of 50 tubes. The postage cost more than they did.
They also have a nice slow warm up, and even using them in a transmitter tube supply, I doubt they'll arc. I'm pulling about 250mA continuous through them and they don't seem bothered by it. Gintaras (KW Tubes) also has some EY500A's if you want to use a 6V heater, or there's the Svet 6D22S.
I use 6CJ3/6CH3 tube in lower voltage/current supplies too, mainly to balance my socket supply and useage. In total I have over a hundred of these tough little beasts, for a total cost including 40 various new sockets and 20 topcaps of less than a NOS Mullard GZ.
Bas,
I would have thought you were in the ideal country for picking up Philips efficiency/booster/damper diodes. I looked in the Vade-Mecum, and it said:
EY80/PY80, EY81/PY81, EY83/PY83, EY88/PY88, PY800, U281, U282, U301, U309, U329. The "U" series are GEC. There are doubtless all sorts of Mazda/Ediswan types with totally weird numbers, but I don't have them to hand. You can afford to be picky, because they will be far cheaper than an NOS GZ34.
John,
that's a very good point about the heater/cathode insulation. I hadn't considered that. The slower warm-up time and the greatly improved insulation are both extremely useful.
I would have thought you were in the ideal country for picking up Philips efficiency/booster/damper diodes. I looked in the Vade-Mecum, and it said:
EY80/PY80, EY81/PY81, EY83/PY83, EY88/PY88, PY800, U281, U282, U301, U309, U329. The "U" series are GEC. There are doubtless all sorts of Mazda/Ediswan types with totally weird numbers, but I don't have them to hand. You can afford to be picky, because they will be far cheaper than an NOS GZ34.
John,
that's a very good point about the heater/cathode insulation. I hadn't considered that. The slower warm-up time and the greatly improved insulation are both extremely useful.
Hi EC8010,
I would have thought the same, but a search on the net reveals only US or Canadian sites.
I reckon Holland being a small country and therefore little space, crushed most of their tube supplies.
He...that gives me an idea..I am so used looking for info on the net..I have a Tube Lore book...I'll have a look in there..
Regards,
Bas
Bas,
http://www.latout.nl/productlijst.php
Not cheap, but he's got 'em.
and him...
http://www.frimu.nl/body_tubes.htm
Cheers,
http://www.latout.nl/productlijst.php
Not cheap, but he's got 'em.
and him...
http://www.frimu.nl/body_tubes.htm
Cheers,
DAMPERS
Hi,
In Holland there quite a lot of surplus stores:
For instance:
Klare, Kent...
Retailers:
FUST ELECTRONICA
Dump:
AUDIO & DUMP
Componenten:
DE GROEF
RIK STOET
The list is far from complete but it's a start...
Cheers,
Hi,
In Holland there quite a lot of surplus stores:
For instance:
Klare, Kent...
Retailers:
FUST ELECTRONICA
Dump:
AUDIO & DUMP
Componenten:
DE GROEF
RIK STOET
The list is far from complete but it's a start...
Cheers,
Dampers
Hi Folks ,
Remember the PY series were designed with series string usage in mind . The tubes seem to flash at power on with parallel supplies , ok with a small signal tube but with a power tube..???.
I first found this out with PL504 (a 300mA series string pentode) and eventually used dc current sourced filaments (this would be complete overkill for rectifiers but the startup would be slllllllllooooooooowww!) .
I use 48V transformers with my PY500a and add series resistors , prevents the power up flash and also slows the warmup even further As John said , I have quite a few CV5905/EY81 and PY801 , going cheap if anyone needs some . I really need the space , my workshop is completely saturated with tubes at present 
316a
Hi Folks ,
Remember the PY series were designed with series string usage in mind . The tubes seem to flash at power on with parallel supplies , ok with a small signal tube but with a power tube..???.
I first found this out with PL504 (a 300mA series string pentode) and eventually used dc current sourced filaments (this would be complete overkill for rectifiers but the startup would be slllllllllooooooooowww!) .
I use 48V transformers with my PY500a and add series resistors , prevents the power up flash and also slows the warmup even further
As John said , I have quite a few CV5905/EY81 and PY801 , going cheap if anyone needs some . I really need the space , my workshop is completely saturated with tubes at present 316a
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