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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ontario
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I have about 185V B+ for a 6SN7 input stage in my headphone amp. I started with the CCS set to 9mA, LED bias -2V which gave a Vp ~130V. Does this seem decent?
This is my first ever scratch design and the sound is pretty good, but there is some harshness and is very un-tube like, and very obvious. This is not a taste issue. I expected to have issues with it being too warm sounding but it's the opposite. I want to rule out this OP as a problem before I look at the output stage. TIA. |
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Sofia
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Quote:
6SN7 is like that. Some people really dislike it. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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-2 volts on the cathode will only allow about a 64 Vpp output before grid current on the 6SN7. That's only about 20 V (minus CSS stall) from hard clipping of the stage.
To Check my math, -2V bias is a max input of 4 Vpp. Since CSS loaded, Av = Mu = 16, so 4 * 16 = 64 Vpp 130 Vp+ -(64/2)V = 162 Vp Max, 98 Vp min. The rest of your circuit would be helpful. If you need more than 10 Vrms for your finals, you probably need to re-design your input stage. If possible, higher B+ might allow more bias voltage. Sorry for the drive-by. Doug
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Scienta sine ars nihil est - Science without Art is nothing. (Implies the converse as well) Mater tua criceta fuit, et pater tuo redoluit bacarum sambucus |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ontario
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Hi guys,
analog_sa, I've had a couple of 6SN7 linestages in the past and none were anything but warm sounding, very different than what i'm getting now. ---------------- DougL, thanks for your time. I have a headphone amp where each channel is a SE triode-strapped 6G6-G output tube, with one 6SN7 triode for input and drive duty. I don't have a schematic to post because I dont' have software. Also, when is a Rg necessary? I've looked at various 6SN7 pre schematics online and some have the grid to the 100K volume pot and some have a 470K to 1M resistor for example. Is this just for safety if a pot fails? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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If you need to draw a schematic, you can use these symbols.
Joel Tunnah Vacuum tube audio Very unusual, and Very cool Output tube. Rg is necessary if you use a classic potentiometer because they could fail open. Not as necessary with a stepped attenuator, but still a good thing. Doug
__________________
Scienta sine ars nihil est - Science without Art is nothing. (Implies the converse as well) Mater tua criceta fuit, et pater tuo redoluit bacarum sambucus |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
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“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ontario
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I'm happy to try a different twin triode but I'd prefer an octal if possible. Know of any that are suitable?
I saw a schematic by dick olsher that shows a ~B+ of 205V and 4.5K Rp, and 157Vp. Rk is 300R for -3V. After seeing this I thought I might be OK. I also noticed the heaters are at 6.75V so I'll fix that up too. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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160V at the plate is a reasonable value. I wouldn't go lower. At that voltage, you'll want more like 3-3.5V at the cathode.
4.5k plate load? That's an effects box, not an amplifier!
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: SoCal
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I'd first try ditching the CCS if your going for a warm sound.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Ontario
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Here's the initial schematic.
I've change the LED to a 360R which brings about -3.25V and Vp to 144V or so. I couldn't hear any noticeable difference. Again I don't think this is my opinion of the sound quality, it's not a taste thing - rather it sounds like there is something not quite right. |
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