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#31 |
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diyAudio Member
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You could try this one: Introduction
It includes a signal generator. It's what I use except for critical analysis, for that I have an HP function generator. |
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#32 |
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diyAudio Member
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Edit; I think its 120hz. It has a buzzy quality to it.
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Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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#33 |
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diyAudio Member
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Alright guys, made a hint of progress. I shorted the input to the tube to ground and the hum disappeared. I am not sure what I did last time. I went ahead and cut out my ratsnest of ground wiring (which you can't see in the photos) and am going to do a nice clean job grounding along with twisting my heater wires tight.
My question comes to grounding. Should I just star ground the whole preamp to the same point? Or should I tie my signal grounds to the output ground, and keep all the PSU ground points tied to the "safety ground". I am sorry if I really just don't know the terminology but I am trying to make sure I do this the best way possible this time. Also where do I ground the shield of the signal wires, with the signal ground? Or at the same point the PSU is grounded? Thanks guys. Evan EDIT; For some reason I didn't use shielded wire from my volume pot to the tube socket. Ill rectify that immediately.
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Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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#34 | |
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diyAudio Member
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In case you haven't seen this, it's a great writeup. It pretty much sums up the recommended grounding scheme.
Star Grounding Quote:
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#35 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
Quote:
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#36 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, the rise with hum was linear to maximum volume. The second I grounded the unshielded wire it was silent even at full volume. I trimmed out that length of wire last night and Ill install shielded in its place.
Ill go ahead and read that article on grounding, seems to me that even if it's not the problem I would like to do it correctly. Evan
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Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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#37 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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If the top of the volume pot was grounded, then maximum volume applies a ground to the grid wire. If the buzz is still there then something is wrong with the grounds. Did you ground the top of the pot to the same place as the bottom of the pot?
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#38 |
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diyAudio Member
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Good question, I don't remember. It is entire possible that I didn't. Ill check that out when I get home. The link above is good on the grounding methods, and seems as if I am to star ground the entire system to the chassis top plate. This includes the safety ground from what I have gathered.
Evan
__________________
Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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#39 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Yes, that link to star grounding is helpful. I personally prefer bus grounding, but either can work OK if done carefully. The main points of any grounding scheme are to remember that even the thickest wire has some resistance and inductance, watch where your currents go, and don't forget the safety ground.
My amp (modified 5-20) has two busbars: one for input and LTP phase splitter, the other for output cathodes and grid leaks (both shared between channels). The point where they join together is effectively the star point. This has a connection to safety ground/chassis (through a fat wirewound resistor), and the negative feed from the PSU. So charging pulses are kept well away from the signals, and output currents are kept away from the inputs. The speaker outputs are grounded to the input bus via the feedback twisted pairs - very little current goes along here, and the feedback must be referenced to the input. The input sockets are isolated from the chassis, as they are grounded at the input bus. |
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#40 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think I understand how to accomplish the grounding. I guess Ill give it a try, if it is safe and doesn't hum like crazy I am okay.
__________________
Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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