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Old 8th August 2009, 12:17 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrish
Has anybody built these converters? I just got a set of these tubes and the adaptor kits in the mail yesterday. The kit is an octal base, an octal socket, some wire and a top cap. The octal socket is much smaller diameter than the base, so does not sit snug inside. How have people put these together.
Yes. You will have to sand the outside of the ceramic sockets a little to make them slide into the black octal sockets. I had some al. oxide rotary discs that I used to do this. I had to do this for two of the four adapters to make them fit properly.

Jeff
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Old 8th August 2009, 12:41 AM   #32
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Quote:
Has anybody built these converters?
I made my own using chassis mount sockets and the bases from dead Chinese KT88's. They are UGLY but not very tall. There is a thread about octal adapters where someone used PVC pipe.

Quote:
Please consider 6384. Although expensive these are very, very tough. Same socket, different pinout !
The 6384 is the Bendix Mil spec version of the 6AR6. Tung Sol 6AR6's can still be found cheap sometimes. You can use them for prototyping before droping in the expensive tubes. I have experimented with both of these tubes and you can indeed crank them pretty hard. They are NOT a drop in replacement for a any 6L6 type no matter what that Ebay seller says. The pinout is different and the bias may wind up just outside the adjustment range of many amps. They don't like 450 volts on the screen either.

If considering something other than a true 6L6 type, I keep coming back to the Electro Harmonix KT88. Same pinout as the 6L6GC so the socket limitations still apply but I get an easy 75 watts from a pair in AB2 triode mode at 450 volts with a 2500 ohm load. These still whup the 6BG6GA's (triode mode) both in power output and sound quality, no adapter needed.

I have been working on a P-P amp and if I had to make the output tube decision today I would go the EH KT88 route. The only decision to make is 2 tubes per channel for 75 watts, or 4 tubes per channel for 150 watts. My OPT's are good for 400 watts but there are no UL taps. I don't need to make the decision today, so more experiments will occur before committing to a design. The somewhat infrequent experiments are here:

6L6GC AB2 Amp

"universal" P-P driver board

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Old 8th August 2009, 01:11 AM   #33
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Default 6BG6GA's

Quote:
Originally posted by tubelab.com
These still whup the 6BG6GA's (triode mode) both in power output and sound quality, no adapter needed.
Great bass, good mids, but a little dark on top for my liking. I'm going to try russian 6n3c-e's next.

Jeff
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Old 8th August 2009, 02:07 AM   #34
chrish is offline chrish  Australia
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Looking again at my adaptor kits, it looks like I only put one chassis mount socket in to one tube base, and those two happened to have the loosest fit. Also, looks like the octal base is slightly tapered, and the pins of the socket hit the bottom of the base before the fit got snug enough. I will just trim the pins, this should allow it to slide in enough for a snug fit and also help guard against shorts in the bottom.

What do you guys recommend using to glue the two together, an epoxy?

Also, why is it when I think I have done the research and found the right component then purchased something, someone comes along and says xxx is better

Regards,

Chris
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Old 8th August 2009, 02:24 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally posted by chrish
I will just trim the pins, this should allow it to slide in enough for a snug fit and also help guard against shorts in the bottom.
You will have to trim the solder tabs anyway. I still had trouble with two.

Quote:
Originally posted by chrish
What do you guys recommend using to glue the two together, an epoxy?
Someone suggested using JB Weld, but I haven't tried it yet.

Jeff
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