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Old 10th April 2009, 08:53 PM   #11
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Exclamation I just had a wild idea!

What's the matter, no gravel roads where you guys are?

I just had a terrific idea. Take the aluminum sheet, splatter driplets of hot melted parafin wax on it to make a random spot pattern with all different size droplets, then let the wax cool hard and slip the aluminum into an etchant solution for a while. After etching and neutralizing/rinse the wax on the spots can be removed with heat and solvent. Voila an interesting raised pattern of smooth spots on a etched rough surface. I must try this sometime! Instead of spots you could spray an aerosol resist through diamond mesh metal so as to make a shadow pattern of the diamonds, etc. Use your imagination.

Sodium hydroxide (Drain cleaner like Draino) etches aluminum and is easy to get. This might work here.
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Old 10th April 2009, 10:44 PM   #12
G is offline G  United States
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Why not just use some scotch bright and rough up the surface and then finish with hammer tone paint? I don't see the need to make things more complicated than they have to be.
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Old 10th April 2009, 11:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by G
I don't see the need to make things more complicated than they have to be.

Then why are there two necks on your guitar?
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Old 11th April 2009, 12:03 AM   #14
nhuwar is offline nhuwar  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcavictim



Then why are there two necks on your guitar?

ROFLMAO




He's got ya there.



The reason is because most paint don't bond well with the surface of Aluminum and if they do the bond very weak.

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Old 11th April 2009, 01:09 AM   #15
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I have been conducting an experiment for the last two years, and have had it on production pieces for the last year or so.

Click the image to open in full size.

My plates are sanded with 400 paper wet, with a little original Dawn dish detergent in the water, just enough to make it suds a little when I sand.  Has to be original plain Dawn, according to an anodizing guy I talked to.  The plate is rinsed with hot water, and as soon as it's dry, I spray with a satin polyurethane.  Satin is the hardest surface, since the flatter is glass powder.  The final finish is far more mar resistant than the bare aluminum was.

The original test piece was left around in the shop for a few months, put outside in the rain and sun.  Every couple months, I would go on a corner with my thumbnail and try to get it to blister or lift.  No dice.  That piece is still around here somewhere.  Next time I see it I'll try again.

Hammerite is also a slow dry, I would expect that it would work just as well, but safer would be to alodine the piece first.  You can find the stuff locally at an auto finishing supplies place.

Aloha,

Poinz
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Old 11th April 2009, 01:38 AM   #16
nhuwar is offline nhuwar  United States
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Poinz,


That does look nice. I think the way poly bond's is total different then paint, but I'm no expert though.

Using the dish detergent will produce finer sanding lines, you may also get a slight etch since most soaps are basic.

A common polishing lubricate to use for metal polishing is propylene glycol which has about the same viscosity. Basically it keeps the paper from loading up and since it's viscous it will keep particles from dragging along the surface and causing deeper scratches. It's actually a good practice to use.

You can also use different polishing mediums to get different grades of finish.

One comes to mind is magnesium oxide.
Heres a link for some, also this place is a grade source of polishing products. They have stuff to give you a smother polish then a pane of glass.

http://www.psidragon.com/products.asp?cat=172


They have polishing alumina down to .05 micron, which is as good and as fine as you can get, won't work on aluminum though.


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Old 11th April 2009, 02:45 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Poindexter
I have been conducting an experiment for the last two years, and have had it on production pieces for the last year or so.

Click the image to open in full size.

My plates are sanded with 400 paper wet, with a little original Dawn dish detergent in the water, just enough to make it suds a little when I sand.  Has to be original plain Dawn, according to an anodizing guy I talked to.  The plate is rinsed with hot water, and as soon as it's dry, I spray with a satin polyurethane.  Satin is the hardest surface, since the flatter is glass powder.  The final finish is far more mar resistant than the bare aluminum was.

The original test piece was left around in the shop for a few months, put outside in the rain and sun.  Every couple months, I would go on a corner with my thumbnail and try to get it to blister or lift.  No dice.  That piece is still around here somewhere.  Next time I see it I'll try again.

Hammerite is also a slow dry, I would expect that it would work just as well, but safer would be to alodine the piece first.  You can find the stuff locally at an auto finishing supplies place.

Aloha,

Poinz
Did you do this to mill finished aluminum or was it already anodized? I finally sourced anodized but mill finish is dirt cheap.
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Old 11th April 2009, 03:14 AM   #18
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If you decide to go with plain aluminum, but don't want the eventual discoloration, check out gordsaluminumpolish.com

Way less hassle than anodizing. It'll bring a near chrome shine and since it has a sealer, you do not have to repeat the process later.
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Old 11th April 2009, 05:35 AM   #19
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Why the fangool would I want to clearcoat andodized aluminum?

Use yer head,

Poinz
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Old 11th April 2009, 12:23 PM   #20
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Not sure who you're responding to here, Poinz. If it was me, note that Hammond chassis are not anodized as supplied. Clearly no one would anodize and treat otherwise. I was suggesting a polish/sealer as an alternative to anodizing.
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