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Old 25th March 2009, 11:21 AM   #1
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Default SimpleSE parts list

Hey folks. I've been a long time lurker on this forum. I've soldered wires together(guitar,RCA) and built computers but thats the closest I've come to building a tube amp.

I've finally decided to build the Tubelab SimpleSE and I have some questions about the parts I will need.

I have an Allied 6K7VG Tranny and C-14X choke on order. As well the 12AT7, 5AR4 and E34L tubes with sockets (and Tubelab's SimpleSE board).

Antique Electronic has sent me a code for 15% off that expires on the 31st and I'd like to order as much of what I'll need in one order from them to save shipping costs. Digi-Key will get most of my resistor and capacitor business.

So RCAs and binding posts, Auricap coupling caps. I don't see a volume control on their site.

On the Antique Electronic website under 600 volt stranded tinned hook-up wire, the 22 AWG (white, so I can use colored marker on). Is this OK?

A terminal strip for grounding?

Rocker Switches; I'm not going to install a SS rectifier but I would like at some point to have switches for feedback and UL. So three switches, 1 power, 1 feedback and 1 mode. Can I just get 3 (P-H507) SPST, ROCKER to do these jobs? I don't see DPST anywhere (or know what the difference is).

AC RECEPTACLE; The P-SP2-500 says W/ fuse holder. Is this the same as a computer receptacle? Or should I buy one of the power cords that matches?

If I go with the Edcore XSE 15-8-5K OT's can I fit this amp on the 12" x 10" aluminum chassis plate?

Thanks for any help you can give.
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Old 25th March 2009, 01:27 PM   #2
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Volume Potentiometer. I'm not sure how good these are but I think I have read reviews of people liking them, certainly affordable.:
HERE
UL and Feedback Switch(you want dpdt not dpst):
HERE
On/Off SPST Switch:
HERE

A PC power cord should work just fine with that receptacle.
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Old 25th March 2009, 04:03 PM   #3
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Default Re: SimpleSE parts list

Quote:
Originally posted by HEADinaJAR
Hey folks. I've been a long time lurker on this forum. I've soldered wires together(guitar,RCA) and built computers but thats the closest I've come to building a tube amp.

I've finally decided to build the Tubelab SimpleSE and I have some questions about the parts I will need.

I have an Allied 6K7VG Tranny and C-14X choke on order. As well the 12AT7, 5AR4 and E34L tubes with sockets (and Tubelab's SimpleSE board).

Antique Electronic has sent me a code for 15% off that expires on the 31st and I'd like to order as much of what I'll need in one order from them to save shipping costs. Digi-Key will get most of my resistor and capacitor business.

So RCAs and binding posts, Auricap coupling caps. I don't see a volume control on their site.

On the Antique Electronic website under 600 volt stranded tinned hook-up wire, the 22 AWG (white, so I can use colored marker on). Is this OK?[/B]
You won't need much wire for this amp. Most of the hookups will use the tails that are already on the transformer. You'll just need a few pieces here or there for grounds, the external capacitor, and the speaker terminals. Then you just need to hook up the inputs (I use a twisted pair from a CAT6 cable).

For all that, 22 AWG will be fine.

Quote:
A terminal strip for grounding?
Again, the PCB does most of the work. The only grounds to contend with are the speaker terminals and the PCB ground, which need to join the chassis and earth ground. You can do all that with a couple of eyelets and a single screw on the chassis.

Quote:
Rocker Switches; I'm not going to install a SS rectifier but I would like at some point to have switches for feedback and UL. So three switches, 1 power, 1 feedback and 1 mode. Can I just get 3 (P-H507) SPST, ROCKER to do these jobs? I don't see DPST anywhere (or know what the difference is).
You need double-pole (DP) switches, which are basically two single-pole (SP) switches in one. If you can't find DP switches in the style you want, you can use two SP switches, one for each channel.

HOWEVER, both the triode/UL and CFB switches need to be double-throw (DT), which means they have two sets of contacts each of which close in the switches two positions.

So you either need two DPDT switches or four SPDT switches to control triode/UL and CFB for both channels.

Quote:
AC RECEPTACLE; The P-SP2-500 says W/ fuse holder. Is this the same as a computer receptacle? Or should I buy one of the power cords that matches?
This is just a standard IEC "computer" connector. A standard computer cord will work fine.

Quote:
If I go with the Edcore XSE 15-8-5K OT's can I fit this amp on the 12" x 10" aluminum chassis plate?
Yes, that should fit OK. I am *just barely* able to fit the Simple SE with the CXSE-25 transformers (bigger than XSE) on a 12x10 chassis, though it is too tight and doesn't look good. See my thread with pics here:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...61#post1783961
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Old 26th March 2009, 12:43 PM   #4
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That's great. Pulls and throws eh? Thanks a lot!
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Old 26th March 2009, 01:17 PM   #5
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Headinajar....shoot me an email quick. You can click the email button on my post.
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Old 26th March 2009, 06:22 PM   #6
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I'd suggest stepping up from the XSE transformers to the GXSE, the cost difference is small and you get more LF range. I used them on my Simple SE that I finished just a week ago and I think they're great.
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Old 26th March 2009, 09:41 PM   #7
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Hey Nic6Paul. I'm still under moderation. Too few posts. They wont let me use email yet.


Coreyk78- If they'll fit on a 12"x10" chassis plate, will do.

Thanks.

Rob.
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Old 26th March 2009, 09:41 PM   #8
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Oh yeah! I'm going to get the two DPDT toggles for feedback and mode with my order from Antique Electronics and install them on or near the back of my amp, but I'd rather have a black rocker swtch for power on the front of my amp. Does anyone know if that SWITCH - SPST, ROCKER - PEAVEY (P-H507) from Antique Electronics would work? Or if I source it locally, is there anything else I need to know about it besides SPST? (eg. 3 amps, 125 VAC).

Thanks everyone.
Rob
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Old 26th March 2009, 10:18 PM   #9
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Yeah it should work just fine. But depending on what type of chassis it may not. This is meant to clip in. So I think it would probably work pretty well with a metal chassis but if you used something thick like wood it probably wouldnt.
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