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Old 20th April 2003, 08:35 PM   #1
Morse is offline Morse  United States
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Default Pics of my new amp!

Hi guys!

I finally got a chance to go to a friend's house and get some pics of my DIY 6922/6DJ8 headphone amp; the circuit's the Optimized Morgan Jones as can be found at headwize.com though the PS is different.

Other pics of this amp will be posted later today at http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html along with pics of some of my other projects which are already there.

All the wood and metalwork was done at home with simple hand tools.

Morse
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Old 20th April 2003, 08:58 PM   #2
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Morse

Very nice job!!!


Joe
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Old 20th April 2003, 09:41 PM   #3
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Could you describe your chasis in more detail. It looks great. What type of wood and what was your finishing technique. Also the aluminum, what tools did you use to cut and finish.

Thanks...Lee
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Old 20th April 2003, 10:08 PM   #4
mig-ru is offline mig-ru  Russian Federation
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Morse, that looks awesome! I'm somewhat jelous... hehe. I am starting to like wood chassis way more than plain metal. Good job!
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Old 20th April 2003, 10:51 PM   #5
Morse is offline Morse  United States
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Thanks for the compliments guys!

Hi King 30; hope I don't put you to sleep with the answer!!

The chassis was made from a single 48" long plank of 3/4" thick cherry, 3-1/2" wide. The aluminium is 1/8" thick extruded stock that was purchased in a 36" length, 2" wide. The overall dimensions of the chassis are 8-1/2" x 8-1/2" x 3-1/2" plus 1/2" for the rubber feet.

The tools were a cheap mitre saw ($80 from the local home improvement store), a 15" 15point hand saw for the aluminium, and a cheapie Black and Decker drill for the holes (I did use the drill press at work for the 3/4" tube socket holes though, since I don't have a 3/4" bit yet). Also I used an ordinary plate joiner to biscuit all the joins.

For the aluminium I just cut off the appropriate length using the hand saw in a mitre box, then marked the positions for the holes using a ***** punch and hand pressure. All corners were radiused with a pair of files - a bastard file to get started, then a fine cut triangle file (for sharpening 15 point saw blades) to put a nice 45 degree corner cut on the top edges as well as to clean up the corners. The finishing is just sanding with 400grit paper initially, followed with a LOT of work with a soft cloth and MAAS metal polish. If you're lazy and happy with a matte look, you can call it quits at this point.

For the cherry, a mitre saw is a must along with a sharp blade - the 10-1/2 saw I have cut it like butter and gave nice clean 90 degree edges so that a good box could be made. For fitting it up I used four corner clamps along with a pair of larger clamps to assure it would be square.

Finishing involves sanding in stages - first with 220 grit and a finish sander. Then, when it's got a nice gloss to it I applied the first coat of tung oil (natural finish from Minwax). After about 5 minutes I wiped off the excess and let it dry overnight. After drying, I gently hand sanded it with 400 grit wet/dry paper to knock down the grain that the first coat of oil raised. Next, another coat of oil (same as before) and another very gentle hand sanding the following day to remove any 'gummies' that started to show up in the finish. Then yet another coat of tung oil with the excess removed after about 2-3 minutes (as you go on, you want each successive coat of oil to be thinner).

After this, it gets dicey - if it's 'mirror gloss' enough for you, you're done. If not, it's time to get out the 600 grit paper and VERY VERY GENTLY work the surface by hand to remove any imperfections WITHOUT GOING THROUGH THE FINISH YOU'VE BUILT UP. It takes practice though so don't get too upset if you have to work at it a little.

At that point I called it quits on this one and rubbed it down with a final polishing of Flitz metal/fibreglass polish (which has a wax in it to protect the metal from corrosion and gives a sheen to the wood) and a soft cloth. If you're more obsessive/compulsive than I am you can keep going on up to 1500 grit automotive fine finishing paper and even more thin coats of tung oil....

Hope this helps,
Morse
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Old 20th April 2003, 11:11 PM   #6
karma is offline karma  Canada
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Default wood work

man that woodwork is a + i like how the edges are nic en rounded off

nice job

im sold im making wood to. i could allways use my black case for soming different
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Old 21st April 2003, 12:18 AM   #7
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Great Job on the case!!!!...looks very clean....a little tip on working with the aluminum....."Scotch Brite" made by 3M is the best for polishing up....I would never use sandpaper....the scotch brite comes in different grades so you can achieve a brushed to a mirror look.


Cheers!!The DIRT®
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Old 21st April 2003, 12:34 AM   #8
Morse is offline Morse  United States
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Hi Joe, and thanks;

Scotchbright, hmmm? I'll give it a try on my next one - right now I just finished polishing the metalwork for my 6BM8 that's in the works to go with the 6DJ8/6922 that's pictured (identical chassis design and wood but the metalwork's a little different to accomodate 2 rather than 3 valves, no headphone jack, and more fittings on the backside).

Oh well, time for me to get back to work!

All the best,
Morse
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Old 21st April 2003, 12:42 AM   #9
EC8010 is offline EC8010  United Kingdom
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Oh wow! That's really pretty!
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference...
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Old 21st April 2003, 01:21 AM   #10
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Morse,
Thanks for the information. That's exactly what I was looking for. Your amp look's great . Do you have a shot of the bottom?
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