Well, at least for the most part. Needs a few tweaks and such here and there and a few unused wires to tie down, but it seems to play music, at least for a whole CD, without bursting into flames since I put it in a metal chassis. I've got a pop at power-off I need to deal with though.
One question: I don't have the (-) terminal of the speaker jacks grounded, just floating. I've heard and seen it done both ways on amps with no feedback, but if I do would I run a seperate wire to the star ground, or tie them seperately (or together) on the chassis near the jacks?
A big thank you to Tom McNally and Norris W. for all their help in answering dumb questions along the way.
FWIW it's a Darling with a 5V4G rectifier. I had to use a bucking trafo to get the B+ down into a reasonable range with my high mains voltage and the parts I had on hand. I went with the junkyard industrial look I guess. Tried to keep it simple.
One question: I don't have the (-) terminal of the speaker jacks grounded, just floating. I've heard and seen it done both ways on amps with no feedback, but if I do would I run a seperate wire to the star ground, or tie them seperately (or together) on the chassis near the jacks?
A big thank you to Tom McNally and Norris W. for all their help in answering dumb questions along the way.
FWIW it's a Darling with a 5V4G rectifier. I had to use a bucking trafo to get the B+ down into a reasonable range with my high mains voltage and the parts I had on hand. I went with the junkyard industrial look I guess. Tried to keep it simple.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Just the standard Hammond 10x17x3 aluminum. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper in 4 different directions then sprayed a couple of coats of art fixative on it.
It's OK for a first build, but I don't think I'll use one again. They are quite thin. This amp only wieghs about 20lbs, so it's not really a problem, but anything heavier and it would be I think.
It's OK for a first build, but I don't think I'll use one again. They are quite thin. This amp only wieghs about 20lbs, so it's not really a problem, but anything heavier and it would be I think.
athos56 said:
I'm using a DPST switch, switching the hot and neutral. Tried putting a 0.01uF/1000V disc cap across the hot terminals on the switch, but didn't like the fact that if the switch was off I was getting 123V from the amp side of the switch to ground. Put back in a replacement switch of the same type and measured virtually nothing.
I think I'll just shut off the amp while the music is playing and call it good.
JandG said:
Thanks.
Take a look at my website for the schematic, etc with OP points on it. Just click on the little pics to see big ones.
http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/PowerAmps.html
Schematic updated on website. I switched from the DPST to a SPST for the hot leg instead of switching both hot and neutral.
http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/Darling_GIF_Schematic_w_12V_FTf.GIF
http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/Darling_GIF_Schematic_w_12V_FTf.GIF
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