1st build done.

bloozestringer · 11th January 2009, 03:48 AM

Well, at least for the most part. Needs a few tweaks and such here and there and a few unused wires to tie down, but it seems to play music, at least for a whole CD, without bursting into flames since I put it in a metal chassis. I've got a pop at power-off I need to deal with though.

One question: I don't have the (-) terminal of the speaker jacks grounded, just floating. I've heard and seen it done both ways on amps with no feedback, but if I do would I run a seperate wire to the star ground, or tie them seperately (or together) on the chassis near the jacks?

A big thank you to Tom McNally and Norris W. for all their help in answering dumb questions along the way.

FWIW it's a Darling with a 5V4G rectifier. I had to use a bucking trafo to get the B+ down into a reasonable range with my high mains voltage and the parts I had on hand. I went with the junkyard industrial look I guess. Tried to keep it simple.

jon_010101 · 11th January 2009, 03:56 AM

That's a cool chassis - where'd ya get it?

bloozestringer · 11th January 2009, 04:07 AM

Just the standard Hammond 10x17x3 aluminum. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper in 4 different directions then sprayed a couple of coats of art fixative on it.

It's OK for a first build, but I don't think I'll use one again. They are quite thin. This amp only wieghs about 20lbs, so it's not really a problem, but anything heavier and it would be I think.

athos56 · 11th January 2009, 04:55 AM

Nice! In my last build I left it floating. For the pop at turn on/off I believe people put a .1uf cap across the switch. The black steel chassis from Hammond are nice and will stand up to 100 lbs of Iron without flexing or bending. (At least so far

)

bloozestringer · 11th January 2009, 05:29 AM

For a few more pics you can goto my website. The schematic is also there as well. Just click on the thumbnails to see bigger pics.

Tubepage

bloozestringer · 12th January 2009, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by athos56
Nice! In my last build I left it floating. For the pop at turn on/off I believe people put a .1uf cap across the switch.

I'm using a DPST switch, switching the hot and neutral. Tried putting a 0.01uF/1000V disc cap across the hot terminals on the switch, but didn't like the fact that if the switch was off I was getting 123V from the amp side of the switch to ground. Put back in a replacement switch of the same type and measured virtually nothing.

I think I'll just shut off the amp while the music is playing and call it good.

JandG · 12th January 2009, 10:26 PM

Nice build you did. How does she sound..? It should sound wonderfull to say the least as I know what they can do. I am running the 1626's 220v @ 23ma w/ 5k 8ohm ancient OT's,I think, I would have to check notes on the op- point. What is your op-points..?
J & G

bloozestringer · 12th January 2009, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by JandG
Nice build you did. How does she sound..? It should sound wonderfull to say the least as I know what they can do. I am running the 1626's 220v @ 23ma w/ 5k 8ohm ancient OT's,I think, I would have to check notes on the op- point. What is your op-points..?
J & G

Thanks.

Take a look at my website for the schematic, etc with OP points on it. Just click on the little pics to see big ones.

http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/PowerAmps.html

bloozestringer · 14th January 2009, 01:22 AM

Schematic updated on website. I switched from the DPST to a SPST for the hot leg instead of switching both hot and neutral.

http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/D..._w_12V_FTf.GIF

11th January 2009, 03:48 AM	#1
bloozestringer diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005	1st build done. Well, at least for the most part. Needs a few tweaks and such here and there and a few unused wires to tie down, but it seems to play music, at least for a whole CD, without bursting into flames since I put it in a metal chassis. I've got a pop at power-off I need to deal with though. One question: I don't have the (-) terminal of the speaker jacks grounded, just floating. I've heard and seen it done both ways on amps with no feedback, but if I do would I run a seperate wire to the star ground, or tie them seperately (or together) on the chassis near the jacks? A big thank you to Tom McNally and Norris W. for all their help in answering dumb questions along the way. FWIW it's a Darling with a 5V4G rectifier. I had to use a bucking trafo to get the B+ down into a reasonable range with my high mains voltage and the parts I had on hand. I went with the junkyard industrial look I guess. Tried to keep it simple.

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11th January 2009, 03:56 AM	#2
jon_010101 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005	That's a cool chassis - where'd ya get it?

11th January 2009, 04:07 AM	#3
bloozestringer diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005	Just the standard Hammond 10x17x3 aluminum. I sanded it with 220 grit sandpaper in 4 different directions then sprayed a couple of coats of art fixative on it. It's OK for a first build, but I don't think I'll use one again. They are quite thin. This amp only wieghs about 20lbs, so it's not really a problem, but anything heavier and it would be I think.

11th January 2009, 04:55 AM	#4
athos56 diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Yakima, Washington	Nice! In my last build I left it floating. For the pop at turn on/off I believe people put a .1uf cap across the switch. The black steel chassis from Hammond are nice and will stand up to 100 lbs of Iron without flexing or bending. (At least so far )

11th January 2009, 05:29 AM	#5
bloozestringer diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005	For a few more pics you can goto my website. The schematic is also there as well. Just click on the thumbnails to see bigger pics. Tubepage

12th January 2009, 10:26 PM	#7
JandG diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Washington State	Nice build you did. How does she sound..? It should sound wonderfull to say the least as I know what they can do. I am running the 1626's 220v @ 23ma w/ 5k 8ohm ancient OT's,I think, I would have to check notes on the op- point. What is your op-points..? J & G

14th January 2009, 01:22 AM	#9
bloozestringer diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005	Schematic updated on website. I switched from the DPST to a SPST for the hot leg instead of switching both hot and neutral. http://pedalforroses.homestead.com/D..._w_12V_FTf.GIF