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#221 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks SpreadSpectrum!
Any chance someone can comment on my calculation regarding the direct coupling of the two stages? Do I take the -75V tail supply from the (nominally at this stage) 150V anode voltage to get +75V on the grid of the second stage? Thanks, Chris |
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#222 | ||||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
If you have access to a scope, the best way to set this up is to set the CCS to the desired current, drive the stage with 2 to 3 times the "normal" drive voltage, and tweak the load resistors for the best looking sine wave. Pick a value that results in the lowest plate voltage that gives good results. You can also tweak the CCS current a bit, and try all of your 6SN7's. They are not all the same! Verify that the distortion decreases as you lower the drive voltage. Quote:
Now tweaking the CCS current in the first stage (this is why there is a pot here) will set the operating points for the entire driver, and can be used to optimize the output voltage swing potential. As you guessed, it is a trade off, drive voltage VS distortion. You will tweak this again when the whole amp is done. I take Sherri to the airport tomorrow. Then I will have 3 weeks to make some glow. I have found a box full of E130L's and a whole bunch of sweep tubes. I think they would look right with some 6SN7's driving them. Soon. Quote:
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#223 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks for that George. Was doing some thinking on the flight today, and realised, of course, that the plate of the first stage is tied to the grid of the second, so it will be the same voltage... Also, as I will not have a negative supply on the second stage, I will have to drop around 158V, so figured using 11K here (14mA @ 158V = 11.3K). I am guessing that I can tweak the current in the loads of the second stage also to get exactly the bias I need here.
Yes i have a signal generator and a scope, so will follow your advice and tweak! Getting very close to finalising the design here and going live! Looking forward to it! Thanks again for the help! Chris |
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#224 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
Quote:
end of thread jacking - I'll start a new one on the SPUD topic ...
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For security reasons my name is changed daily... |
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#225 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Hello Chris,
Thought I would write and mention that there is a few of obvious schematic errors you will want to fix. The errors I observed in the CAD schematic are as follows; 1. The lower mosfet source follower's output is connected to screen grid of the lower output tube rather than the control grid. 2. The suppressor grid of output tube(s) should be tied to the cathode on each tube. 3. The minus gas regulator tube used for the bias circuit needs to have its plate and cathode connection reversed. The plate should go to ground and the cathode to the negative supply. I am sure you would have found these errors eventually, but I figured sooner is better than later. Have fun with the amplifier. Doug S.
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#226 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks for taking the time to have a look at the schematic.
The program I am using is DesignWorks Lite. 1. Connecting to suppressor from Mosfet was a mistake, have now corrected, thanks. 2. I had to make my own tube components, should have remembered to connect cathode and suppressor. A bit hard to modify now, but thanks for pointing it out. 3. Gas regulator polarity, thanks for correcting me on that, have modified. Attached is latest, with corrections... Thinking of lifting the voltages of the heaters for the 6SN7s. Is this required? I was thinking of 50-75volts... Thanks, Chris |
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#227 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
I laid out a simple PC board with a pair of 6SN7's using a schematic very similar to yours. I haven't had time to make one yet. Maybe this weekend.
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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#228 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Chris,
I agree with Tubelab on his recommendation to elevate the heaters on the second 6SN7. The design thought I wanted to offer you was to simply tie your regulated +105v supply to an isolated filament winding that serves that tube, rather than to add more parts in the way of a resistive divider. Doug S. (aka Mickeystan) |
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#229 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks, glad I am on track here. Unfortunately I only have one 6.3 volt winding that has to supply all tubes, so it will have to be 75volts from a resistive divider from B+.
Now, for dumb question time again... In another thread going at the moment talking about MOSFET source followers, members are talking about the amount of current they are setting for the MOSFET using either just a resistor or CCS. In our example here (same as MOSFET Follies and tubelab driver board) we have a 10K resistor from the source to the negative supply. Is the current calculated by looking at the voltage drop across this resistor, ie difference between bias voltage (about -20v in this instance) and negative supply (-75v here) for 55v dropped across a 10K resistor to give 5.5mA? Also, what would be a reasonable current to aim for? Thanks again for the help! Chris |
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#230 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little. |
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