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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks for taking the time to respond Eli, and sorry for any thread hijack. If things look like moving away from the original question on the thread I will start another thread.
The output iron is Tamura F684. It has UL taps and "a third winding exclusive for NFB use" 16R. I thought that I read in Morgan that the original Mullard 5-20 had high sensitivity and poor noise performance. I am guessing the replacement of the EF86 with the ECC81 etc and the sand source followers address these issues. Very interesting. Have two more assignments due in the next week, then finished till Feb. so will be able to start designing something... Thanks again, Chris |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Champaign, Illinois
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Quote:
The ST-35 PC board makes it very easy to build an EL84 Dyna ST 35 clone that should set you back less than $400. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Newark, DE
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The DIYtube ST35 makes a very nice first project. I cobbled together my first one with less than $100 of iron (salvaged power transformer, $20; Hammond 1620 output transformers, $65 for the pair) plus $100 for the board and parts. I stole the tubes out of another amp and the ST35 sounds just beautiful for not a whole lot of dollars.
Having everything on one circuit board (power supply, tube sockets, everything!) makes construction a total no-brainer. Results are virtually guaranteed. Highly recommended.
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#14 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Alps:Tube amp designs over 150W, SMPS guru.
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Quote:
Somewhere is a design of the Mullard 5-20 using the EF86 as a triode and 15dB sens drop but with far reduced noise.. The characteristics then become a ECC82 look-a-like, but with a far better HF response. Obviously the drop in loop gain will req. nfb component changes. richj |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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I am not an expert, or even an informed commentator, just remembering what I saw in Morgan... I think what Eli is suggesting is going to be different enough from the original design for those comments in Morgan to be irrelevant.
I am reasonably good with a soldering iron and a drill press and following a schematic, but I am no electronics engineer. I would be grateful for some gentle guidance ![]() So, for a 6L6 based design, I am guessing around the 300 volt mark B+? So a transformer something around 370-0-370 200mA (for monoblock) mark? Plus I will need a -ive bias. Excuse the ignorance again, but what kind of current draw is there on the bias? I would imagine quite low... Thanks for the help so far. If this turns in to another design, I will start a thread Chris |
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#16 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
Starting a new thread that links this thread is an excellent idea. Title it AB2 6L6GC or something similar. B+ for this project will be about 450 V. Look at the 6L6GC data sheet. While you are at it, pay close attention to the plate curves of positive g1 voltages. Notice that when g1 goes substantially positive, quite a bit of current is present. That current is associated with (among other things) the negative rail. B- current requirements here are substantial. The "idle" current of the 6L6GCs gets controlled by what goes on at the MOSFET gates. Remember, the "beamie" control grids are DC COUPLED to the FET source electrodes. An initial WAG on my part for the 6L6GC idle current is 10 mA.
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Eli D. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sydney
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Thanks Eli, new thread started here: 6L6 AB2 Amp
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