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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bakersfield Ca
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Ok,
this one have driven me nuts, I have been having a hum problem I can't seem to resolve. I am seeing about 3 mv at the output and looking at the scope it would appear I have a high freq oscillation. I have tried (as per Pete's instruction ) isolated heater supplies, external power supply, changing grid resisters on the el34 to no avail. here is a link to the build article http://www.pmillett.com/lowmu_preamp.htm . I built it pretty faithfully to the original (other than turning it 180 degrees ). I would think if it were oscillation moving my hand around the tubes would alter it but it does not. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Bill |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Try plate stoppers?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
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Where are R3, R5, R9 and R10 physically located?
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Jason |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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I tried to build a version of this a long time ago and could never get it quiet. I used lots of different 6080's and while they were all noisy in different ways, they were all too noisy to use. I eventually gave up on the project.
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bakersfield Ca
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They are tied to the pins, I have varied them up and down. If I wanted to eliminate the tubes and check the B+ what value resister would I substitute? I think the oscillation is in the EL34 current source but would like to confirm it. My trouble shooting skills are weak so this is a good learning opportunity.
Thanks for your help Bill |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Maybe a good moment to buy a simple oscilloscope?
Jan didden
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/Yes! Its out: Linear Audio Vol 5! I'm not an "accademic", just a plodder who loves a challenge - Ian Hegglun |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
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Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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I suggest to start by ensuring that the power supply is functioning as required.
Disconnect the audio circuit and load the supply with resistors representing max load. Adjust supply as required to achieve target ripple. (Consider replacing choke with resistors as a short term measure). Once you are happy with the supply then reconnect to the preamplifier circuit. Focus on one amp channel only. Remove the vacuum tubes from the other channel. (Get one channel fixed then replicate the fix in the other channel). Disconnect the load from the preamplifier (i.e. disconnect any power amp connected). Step through the circuit one item at a time to identify at which point the fault is introduced. I have seen a similar problem when there was inappropriate earthing arrangements; the preamplifer audio ground was connected directly to chassis ground which then connected to mains ground which then connected to the power amp chassis ground which then connected to the power amp audio ground which then connected back to the preamplifer ground via the 'ground' conductor of the un-balanced interconnection cable. The sum total was a big ground loop and lots of hummmmmmmmm... |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I, you want to check the CCS, disconnect the 6AS7s and sub in a dummy load resistor. In the original circuit, stage current is 50mA and the plate voltage on the 6AS7 is 125V. Using Ohm's Law, R = V/I = 125/50 =2k5. Power is P = IV = 0.05A x 125V = 6.25W. Use a 2.2-2.7k 10W resistor and see if the voltage across it is 50mA times the resistance.
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