Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Tubes / Valves
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum

diyAudio Sponsor

Search for a tube at thetubestore.com                            Product reviews and more

Audio tubes for any amplifier: from high end home audio to classic guitar amps.

Quick links by tube type: 12AX7, EL34, 6L6, KT66, 6550, KT88, EL84, 12AU7, 12AT7, 6922, 6H30, 300B, 6V6, 6SN7 

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 30th October 2008, 12:20 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: USA
Send a message via AIM to ThSpeakerDude88
Default RH84 Push pull?

Has anyone tried this? I came up with a circuit that I thought might work while at school one day. It is based off of a RH84 stereo circuit with shared cathode resistors and a cathodyne splitter to drive the amp.

This achieves a few things:
1) allows each side of the amp to have local feedback to the driver tube
2) isolates the drivers and their lowered gain from the cathodyne
3) the cathodyne has a very accurate signal at the cathode as a replica of the anode signal only inverted, and not loading the cathodyne with the output tubes makes it easier to balance.

It basically looks like a LTP PI with local feedback. The reason I chose to use seperate driver tubes and phase inverter tubes is because it allows me to use the local feedback, which happens to lower gain, without affecting the phase inverter. This keeps symmetry in the signal and since the phase inverter is in front of these stages and only needs to simply invert the signal there does not need to be as much gain.

I am not sure if I am crazy or not, but it is an idea to play with. What do you guys think? Calling Mr. Kitic!
Excerpt from a thread on partial feedback amplifiers:
"ANY RH amp that was published to this moment can be made into a PP amp (with feedback and all...) provided you make it double... and you have a phase splitter in front of the two symmetrical amps per channel. It would work great -- actually, as great as the phase splitter is." ~Kitic
Well that is what inspired the idea anyways, so..
Click the image to open in full size.
__________________
always preach the gospel-
and when necessary use words.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 09:41 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Portland,Oregon
Blog Entries: 4
Send a message via AIM to DigitalJunkie
The one thing that has me wondering,is the cathodyne's grid. It's going to want to be just a few volts below the cathode voltage,which will be somewhat significant. 100K grid leak might be kind of small,and you won't want to use the pot as the grid leak.(DC on the pot,etc.)
You'll probably want to AC-couple the input,and fiddle the biasing arrangement for the cathodyne.

Just my first late night impression.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 09:55 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Shoog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Eire
Looks promising.
We could argue about the choice of phase splitter. I personally would choose a transformer and use a mains toroidal ( but thats just me).
You have no provision for balancing the output stage and you are not making best use of your output stage with the simple 200R resistor. I have built a very similar circuit and would recommend turning the output stage into a differential stage. This will address your output stage balance issue and considerably improve the sound quality.
Here's what you do. Take two Constant Current Sinks (which can be as simple as a LM317 and a single resistor), place one in the cathode of each of the output tubes. Take a 1000uf cap and attach the anode to the cathode of the output tube. Connect the two cap cathodes together and attach a 300R resistor to the node. Connect the other end of this resistor to ground. Bypass the two valve cathodes together with a 0.1uf film cap of your choice. Hey presto, you have a differential output stage. You wont regret the extra effort.

With the drivers why not just drop the cathodyne and stiffen up the LTP and use it for phase splitting. I think the result will be superior. You will need a little bit of a negative rails - which you can create by rectifying a spare heater winding - and place a CCS in the tail rather than that sad little 120R resistor. If doing this you lose half your gain though, this is where a little input transformer comes in as it would allow you to drive both LTP inputs and maintain full stage gain.
Shoog
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 09:56 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Geek's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
There should be no voltage developed across the grid resistor, so the pot there will be kind of useless.

You'll also need a bigger resistor in the 12AT7 differential amp cathode. Actually, a CCS in there is phenomenal (ask chrisb)

Cheers!
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 10:53 AM   #5
Yvesm is offline Yvesm  France
diyAudio Member
 
Yvesm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ardeche
Quote:
Originally posted by Geek

. . .
You'll also need a bigger resistor in the 12AT7 differential amp cathode. Actually, a CCS in there is phenomenal (ask chrisb)

Cheers!
Indeed, this cathode resistor will adjust the FB ratio by altering the effective 12AT7 Rp.
I would try a partial (adjustabe) by pass cap accross it ? ?

Just my guess.

Yves.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 11:26 AM   #6
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Blog Entries: 1
The input stage won't work. It is not set up for a useful operating point. The grid will be at zero volts, so the cathode will be at maybe 1-2V. That will run the stage current at a few hundredths of a milliamp (highly nonlinear) and limit the swing to a few tenths of a volt.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 11:30 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Portland,Oregon
Blog Entries: 4
Send a message via AIM to DigitalJunkie
^^^ Yea,what SY said.

Scroll down this page a bit,it gives some info on biasing a cathodyne:
http://www.freewebs.com/valvewizard/cathodyne.html
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 11:51 AM   #8
diyAudio Member
 
audiousername's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Is the cathodyne/split load/concertina really necessary?

The circuit will work with a CCS in the cathodes of the driver stage to use them as a differential pair.

Edit:

The 220 ohm resistors in series with the output stage control grids are 'grid stopper' resistors - the idea being that they work in conjunction with the output stage input capacitance to form a low pass filter to reject spurious high frequency rubbish that could cause instability or oscillation. To work best, they have to physically be placed as close as possible to the socket (some even have advocated using SMD components for this task, as they have no lead...) I know it's just a rough schematic, but the way it is drawn makes one think that the importance of their position has been lost.
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 12:43 PM   #9
SY is offline SY  United States
diyAudio Moderator
 
SY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Austin, TX
Blog Entries: 1
Not to mention that they're too small. Given the pentode mode here, the input capacitance is low, so 10k or even bigger would be more effective.

The other issue is that, without higher feedback, the output impedance of the amp will be quite high, and the LF distortion will not be a happy thing.
__________________
“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache
  Reply With Quote
Old 30th October 2008, 01:15 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
audiousername's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Melbourne, Victoria
Quote:
Originally posted by Geek
There should be no voltage developed across the grid resistor, so the pot there will be kind of useless.

You'll also need a bigger resistor in the 12AT7 differential amp cathode. Actually, a CCS in there is phenomenal (ask chrisb)

Cheers!
Gregg,

Do you mean the 100k pot at the input or the 2M pot at the inputs of the driver stage? Either pot is going to see the full control grid input signal to the its respective valve, but the 2M pot is unnecessary - the balance of the split load phase splitter will be sufficiently good with equal load resistances.

I don't think split load phase splitter is necessary as long as the output stage is working in class A (class B could be a problem since as one valve cuts off, the load resistance of one half of the differential pair rises by a factor of the feedback ratio, causing the output impedance of the other half to change, which in turn alters the feedback ratio of the other half, altering its gain - and gain altering with signal level implies distortion).

Agreed that a CCS would be prefereable to the 120 ohm resistor.

I also don't think there's enough feedback. It can be increased without that much hassle with the use a pentode driver and completely dispensing with the separate load resistance, leaving the input valve anodes fed only from "Rfb" (in this case 100k, but the value would have to be recalculated). I'm also a fan of direct coupling the output stage to gain immunity to blocking distortion, so let's dispense of the coupling capacitors there and feed the cathodes of the input stage from a negative supply - this is trivial to create with the power supply drawn. DC balance can be gained from altering the screen voltages of the input stage.

Oh, wait. Someone has already built an amp with all that.
__________________
Jason
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OB push-pull tinitus Planars & Exotics 3 22nd April 2009 11:17 PM
push pull chainenoble Subwoofers 17 28th June 2006 04:35 AM
modify parallel push-pull EL84 to single push-pull chungtat Tubes / Valves 12 3rd November 2005 11:25 PM
Is the Zen really a push-pull? Kashmire Pass Labs 3 17th August 2004 09:07 PM
Double push-pull versus single push-pull jraraujo Tubes / Valves 19 19th October 2002 12:23 AM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 09:59 AM.

Page generated in 0.12533 seconds (82.02% PHP - 17.98% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio