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Old 31st October 2008, 03:29 AM   #31
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oregon
8-pin sockets are readily available. My favorite source for surplus stuff, allelectronics.com has them for $2.50 under Relay Sockets. They have some nice HV caps for cheap experimentation also.

I will buy 2 9-pin sockets though...
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Old 31st October 2008, 08:22 PM   #32
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Default Group Buy Thread

Group buy thread started at Group Buy for Experimenter's 9 and 7 pin Tube Socket PCBs
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Old 31st October 2008, 10:29 PM   #33
Zigis is offline Zigis  Latvia
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If boards is still not ordered, maybe for more easy work with this boards it is good idea to change connectors position little:

For 9 pin tube- 2 pole connector for pins 4,5 (heater), one 3 pole connector for pins 1,2,3 and second 3 pole connector for pins 6,7,8 and one more connector for pin 9.

So for dual triodes we have separate connector for heater, one for one triode and one for other triode.
For pentodes°use at least heater is on separate connector.

for 7 pin in similar logic.

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Old 5th November 2008, 01:24 AM   #34
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I've done some proto sockets almost exactly like Geek's pictures.
Either I didn't see his pictures when I suggested PVC end caps, or something filtered into my noggin in a subliminal fashion. Schedule 40 PVC end caps are about 50 cents apiece at the big-box hardware stores. I flattened the slight bulge at the end of some of the caps using a belt sander. Not really necessary in the long run, as the big hole for the socket takes out a lot of the bulge. I used a unibit and a drill press to make the socket holes - the PVC drills like butter. Putting in the socket mounting holes and the radial holes for the wires is a snap - you could really do everything with a small vise and a hand drill, though a drill press makes things easier. So far, I have a few 7 pin and 9 pin miniatures made up. I already userelay sockets for octal tubes, so that base is covered.
Next up are some compactron adapters for 9 pn Noval and Magnoval sockets, and the duodecars - a little larger end cap, more holes, blah, blah, blah. One twist to the concept would be to cut up some euro-style connector strips into two and three position bits, and hang them on the ends of the radial wires for solderless conections. Pictures of this will follow when I'm done. One thing to remember doing things this way is to use top mount sockets - the PVC is too thick and irregular to easily do under-chassis style sockets.
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Old 5th November 2008, 01:50 AM   #35
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Originally posted by wrenchone
I've done some proto sockets almost exactly like Geek's pictures.
Either I didn't see his pictures when I suggested PVC end caps, or something filtered into my noggin in a subliminal fashion.
I used 1KV rated wire and have used 6L6GC's in them with 700V on the anode with no breakdown

The PVC caps if you use "schedule 40" and not CPVC, can handle the heat as well as the voltage safely.

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Old 7th November 2008, 03:32 AM   #36
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Shown are some breadboarding sockets inspired subliminally by Geek's. I don't remember seeing his sockets posted here, but maybe the input seeped into my hindbrain. At any rate, we both appear to be using schedule 40 end caps, which drill with ridiculous ease. I used bus wire to hook up to the sockets, and added cut-up bits of euro-style terminal strips to make it easy to do solderless connects on wires and components. There's enough lead left over for test prods or scope probes. Who needs a printed circuit board? I got some 1.5" caps tonight to use with compactron sockets. Those will need a little work with a coarse file or rasp to flatten off the ends a bit before I mount sockets. Still, not much work for an end product that will give and give.
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