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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes, I am crazy.
Not because I want to know if it can be done, but more because I was walking through the woods at school and found an RCA tv buried in the mud. Pulled a few of the unbroken tubes from it and they test new. The 6JB6 is used in transmitters, and is a big sweep power pentode with 17 watt plate dissipation and 3 watt screen. I think the only question would really be finding what point to operate it at into what load, with how much drive. I don't expect much power, 5 watts or so probably since the screen voltage is limited. I've got all kinds of 12Ax7's,AT7's, AU7's, 6DJ8's, 6AU6/BE6/BA6's. Weirdish tubes could make a cool conversation peice. So what do you say?
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always preach the gospel- and when necessary use words. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Sure why not. Dissipation and plate voltage isn't too important, but watch the screen voltage.
Shouldn't need much drive at all, 10v maybe, since it's guitar maybe a few stages of AX7, throw a tonestack in somewhere... maybe have an "overdrive" channel with an additional ax7 at zero-bias or something. i dunno. tired. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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wow I didn't realize the drive needed was around that of a 6v6 or 6bq5. This is more than adequetly provided by an ax7. I'll probably throw in a two stage pre with volume btween it and a cathode follower after the second stage for some marshall-ness.
What load should I try? I've got a hammond 125CSE or whatever, should be good for 10-15 watts if I watch idle current... and whatever load I desire.
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always preach the gospel- and when necessary use words. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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hey-Hey!!!,
The critical thing with these tubes is providing a solid screen votlage. This also happens to be at a fraction of the plate voltage. For reasonable loads, it will probably be around 100V with a 250-300V anode voltage. Figure on a 1k5-2k SE load, or double that for PP. 0B3 at 90V or 0C3 at 105 is where I'd want to start. cheers, Douglas
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the Tnuctipun will return |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Well the datasheet says max G2 of 220v, so I would think that 180 or so would be fine. Its gonna be a guitar amp so cheap and dirty is the name of the game. Doesn't need to be very linear. Still, I may try the gas regulator as it might look kinda cool
Oh, heres something I forgot to ask... Fixed bias or will cathode work just fine?
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always preach the gospel- and when necessary use words. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Not to throw a curve, but that's a perfect candidate for screen drive. tubelab has posted a lot of stuff about his MI applications for that topology.
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“Listening to records is like ****ing a picture of Brigitte Bardot.” - Sergiu Celibidache |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Midland, Michigan
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Not to throw another curve ... but ... where are you going to get the 16.8 volts for the filament?
It might be less costly to purchase a 6JB6 tube so that you can use a standard filament transformer. Just a thought.
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Frank |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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Quote:
cheers, Douglas
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the Tnuctipun will return |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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Frank, I will just use a small 13.5v (which puts out more like 16v) transformer that I have. Bridge rectified I'll get around that, and then an LM317 for the heaters of the preamp tubes. I already have the tubes,sockets, OPT, regulator, chassis etc. All I need is a suiatable PT. I was thinking along the lines of a 269JX which puts out 315v after SS rectification.
Another thought: I might get around 17v ( remember +/- 10% for these series heater guys) if double the 6.3v winding, which usually comes out to around 7v anyways. Not too concerned with it anyways, easy enough to change out if I wanted to later. So explain this grid thing to me... I thought that the higher the vG2 the higher the output power? I do understand that pulling it down to a lower voltage helps linearity, but I am not as well versed in sweep tubes as I am your 'regular' pentodes and triodes.
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always preach the gospel- and when necessary use words. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Macedon NY
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True... in push-pull. But in SE class A, you're up against the plate dissipation limit, so you can't use the extra current that the tube could conduct with a higher screen voltage. Also, the screen will be hurtin' if you thrash it... better to keep the screen voltage down. A screen resistor MIGHT sound better than a gas tube - you can try both...
Linearity is desired in audio amps, but not necessarily in guitar amps. Smooth transition into clipping probably will sound best. Especially in a small amp that sometimes has to be turned up to "11". |
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