Hi Guys
Im a newbie to this forum (and electronics in general ,so forgive my ignorance), and i was wondering: does anybody know much about how to assemble components on a tagboard. Im lead to believe there is some kinda special tool used. Also, is any soldering involved in the process (other than earthing) thanks for your posts in advance!
Im a newbie to this forum (and electronics in general ,so forgive my ignorance), and i was wondering: does anybody know much about how to assemble components on a tagboard. Im lead to believe there is some kinda special tool used. Also, is any soldering involved in the process (other than earthing) thanks for your posts in advance!
First, everything must be clean. NOS parts are often in
need of good cleaning, solder often does not stick well
to deeply tarnished metal.
Don't rely on solder alone for the mechanical connection.
Be sure to bend the lead in some way that binds securely.
This also frees your hand from holding the part, that you
might better control the iron and the solder.
Apply tacky rosin flux to the joint, don't rely on the solder
core to contain enough flux. Never use corrosive flux.
The iron should be slightly shiny wet (tinned) with solder.
I prefer a brass chore boy cleaning pad more than a wet
sponge for cleaning off any excess.....
Touch the tag and the component lead simultaneously.
When you estimate them to be hot, apply the solder to
the joint from the opposie side. The solder should flow
through the joint toward the hot iron.
If you get too much solder, you can draw it away with
solder wick. The trick to getting wick to work far better
than a "solder sucker" is apply a lot of flux to the wick
first.
You can never have too much flux if its the right stuff.
It must not be corrosive, yet must still clean up easily
with only hot water and a toothbrush.
Clean wet parts should never be powered while wet.
Nor left wet any longer than necessary. Dry them with
a hair dryer, or put in a hot dry place no more than 70C.
Don't overcook electrolytic caps please, might be best
to install those last if opportunity permits....
need of good cleaning, solder often does not stick well
to deeply tarnished metal.
Don't rely on solder alone for the mechanical connection.
Be sure to bend the lead in some way that binds securely.
This also frees your hand from holding the part, that you
might better control the iron and the solder.
Apply tacky rosin flux to the joint, don't rely on the solder
core to contain enough flux. Never use corrosive flux.
The iron should be slightly shiny wet (tinned) with solder.
I prefer a brass chore boy cleaning pad more than a wet
sponge for cleaning off any excess.....
Touch the tag and the component lead simultaneously.
When you estimate them to be hot, apply the solder to
the joint from the opposie side. The solder should flow
through the joint toward the hot iron.
If you get too much solder, you can draw it away with
solder wick. The trick to getting wick to work far better
than a "solder sucker" is apply a lot of flux to the wick
first.
You can never have too much flux if its the right stuff.
It must not be corrosive, yet must still clean up easily
with only hot water and a toothbrush.
Clean wet parts should never be powered while wet.
Nor left wet any longer than necessary. Dry them with
a hair dryer, or put in a hot dry place no more than 70C.
Don't overcook electrolytic caps please, might be best
to install those last if opportunity permits....
Hi Ramalamafafafa, I notice you're from downunder, if you cannot source the Kester solder mentioned in a previous post, I can recomend Multicore solder with the #511 "Crystal" flux, tins everything very well at a moderate temp (370 deg cee, a #7 bit if you have a Weller iron with the magnetic thermostat). All the trade suppliers in NZ have it, so I doubt you'd have much trouble finding it in Oz.
Works well even with slightly tarnished items, and doesn't leave a lot of flux residue.
Works well even with slightly tarnished items, and doesn't leave a lot of flux residue.
Cheers for the advice so far guys, its real helpful!! Soooooo, a kiwi eh radiotron............whats the name of some of these suppliers you speak of. (i live in perth, its probably just as easy to source stuff from NZ as the eastern states of australia to where i live!!!) Thanks again everybody, this is settling some doubts i had about building a vintage amp!!!
Hi, yeah, a kiwi (of sorts!), anyway here is somewhere to try for the #511 solder, I deal with these guys, they're OK: http://www.tradetech.co.nz/results.html?search_type=1&new_search=1&q=crystal+flux
And you could also search http://www.spectron.co.nz/000 Public/index.html and go to "soldering technology -> Solder Wire - Leaded and have a look at range there.
See how you get on with those, Farnell have it too, they are in Oz, here is search result for them: http://nz.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...ch_001&Ntt=crystal+flux&Ntx=&_requestid=36616
Just search "crystal flux" and you'll find it.
Good stuff, use it all the time for my own work, and in day job where rework with leaded solder is applicable. Cheers, 'tron.
And you could also search http://www.spectron.co.nz/000 Public/index.html and go to "soldering technology -> Solder Wire - Leaded and have a look at range there.
See how you get on with those, Farnell have it too, they are in Oz, here is search result for them: http://nz.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...ch_001&Ntt=crystal+flux&Ntx=&_requestid=36616
Just search "crystal flux" and you'll find it.
Good stuff, use it all the time for my own work, and in day job where rework with leaded solder is applicable. Cheers, 'tron.
hey dudes and dudettes. hmmmm, whilst im here, does anybody know where to get a tagboard for a fender twin. (i dont mean to seem as if i cant do my own research, its just that ive looked EVERYWHERE!.) marshall tagboards seem to be easy to get hold of, just not fenders! Thanks for posting your advice on the rosin and solder guys!, its of great help! cheers.
Hi there,
Have not looked myself but this place is great for replacement parts for vintage guitar amps -
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/
Cheers,
Rob
Have not looked myself but this place is great for replacement parts for vintage guitar amps -
http://www.mojomusicalsupply.com/
Cheers,
Rob
just had another look on the net for the afformentioned twin reverb tagboard, and for anybody who was interesed, i found this
http://www.torresengineering.com
http://www.torresengineering.com
ramalamafafafa said:
http://www.turretboards.com/
Check the section called circuit boards and then go to "fender style" and then to "twin".
Should get you sorted and you even get to choose colour!
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