Hi
There are no universal preferences, it's pretty much a question of taste which may also develop and change. Seeing you're in SA there are not that many choices locally. Readily available (and reasonable) are WIMA MKP4 polyprops from AVNET, LCR elcos from AP, Welwyn resistors from RS components, ERO MKP caps from RS electronics, various motor-start caps. This will at least give you a comparison point for better components.
cheers
peter
There are no universal preferences, it's pretty much a question of taste which may also develop and change. Seeing you're in SA there are not that many choices locally. Readily available (and reasonable) are WIMA MKP4 polyprops from AVNET, LCR elcos from AP, Welwyn resistors from RS components, ERO MKP caps from RS electronics, various motor-start caps. This will at least give you a comparison point for better components.
cheers
peter
The chosen ones!
HI
1oo% agreed with you...is like the food...everyone have is one preferences...that even change during life.
when i ear..."that sound best than..." for me that doesn't mean nothing...weel, in reality only mean that listener A prefer the sound of the component B in relation of component C....no more no less!
regards
jorge
HI
1oo% agreed with you...is like the food...everyone have is one preferences...that even change during life.
when i ear..."that sound best than..." for me that doesn't mean nothing...weel, in reality only mean that listener A prefer the sound of the component B in relation of component C....no more no less!
regards
jorge
Generally MKP are better than Electrolytics though..soundwise and specwise. MKP don't age as fast as electrolytics...
But electrolytics can't be beaten in uF per $.
For that reason the tube output stage in my cd is going to use lytics in the psu for a change. My poweramps only use MKP and MKP in oil (motor start)
Except as bypass cap for the cathode resistor where the size was important as well there I used a BG lytic.
But electrolytics can't be beaten in uF per $.
For that reason the tube output stage in my cd is going to use lytics in the psu for a change. My poweramps only use MKP and MKP in oil (motor start)
Except as bypass cap for the cathode resistor where the size was important as well there I used a BG lytic.
My <i>preferences</i> are (not totally in order)
PSU
-PP in oil
-PP
-Electros, if, they are the first in CLCLC only (cost & availability) or in DC filament supplies. Panasonic TSHA and TSHB are good for $$
Coupling / bypassing etc
-Audyn PP film/foils
-Arcotronics PP f/f
-Silver mica in low value positions
-Russian Teflons
Cathode bypasses (prefer none)
-Elna Starget (cheap at RS)
-PP esp arcotronics and ASC
Resistors
-Beyschlag / Philips MF (cheap and available)
-Mills NIWW (excellent)
-Kiwame Carbon film
-Vishay bulk foil
-Caddocks
Build it with whatever decent components you have at hand, then change components and see whether the difference is important to you. Whatever is in series with the signal usually has a bigger sonic affect than something in shunt. Same with low signal level components like in phono stages. Anode and cathode resistors are the first R's I would change, with Mills being excellent for higher power apps (so are some of the Vishay power foils) as well as Caddock and Kiwame for lower power (preamp) anode, and cathode. I don't like carbon compositions much, though I have some vintage items that are full of them and sound great.
Coupling caps and PSU caps are in the signal path, so I use the best I can. PP in oils will last forever if treated well, so the expense can be recycled into later projects too.
Topological changes will have a bigger effect than some component changes and vice versa with the topology usually being the biggest, and passives being maybe 10% (-20%) *sometimes* more in some instances. Don't get too hung up on the part itself, or the hype. Get the amp working.
Also don't limit yourself to what you can get locally. If you have a CC and a fax, mail order from Europe or the US. Apart from a few things I get surplus or from RS/Farnell, I import almost all of it because it's not available anywhere near where I live. Postage for small parts is very reasonable, and there are a heap of reputable sellers of quality parts out there. Suggestions later if you like.
Enjoy
PSU
-PP in oil
-PP
-Electros, if, they are the first in CLCLC only (cost & availability) or in DC filament supplies. Panasonic TSHA and TSHB are good for $$
Coupling / bypassing etc
-Audyn PP film/foils
-Arcotronics PP f/f
-Silver mica in low value positions
-Russian Teflons
Cathode bypasses (prefer none)
-Elna Starget (cheap at RS)
-PP esp arcotronics and ASC
Resistors
-Beyschlag / Philips MF (cheap and available)
-Mills NIWW (excellent)
-Kiwame Carbon film
-Vishay bulk foil
-Caddocks
Build it with whatever decent components you have at hand, then change components and see whether the difference is important to you. Whatever is in series with the signal usually has a bigger sonic affect than something in shunt. Same with low signal level components like in phono stages. Anode and cathode resistors are the first R's I would change, with Mills being excellent for higher power apps (so are some of the Vishay power foils) as well as Caddock and Kiwame for lower power (preamp) anode, and cathode. I don't like carbon compositions much, though I have some vintage items that are full of them and sound great.
Coupling caps and PSU caps are in the signal path, so I use the best I can. PP in oils will last forever if treated well, so the expense can be recycled into later projects too.
Topological changes will have a bigger effect than some component changes and vice versa with the topology usually being the biggest, and passives being maybe 10% (-20%) *sometimes* more in some instances. Don't get too hung up on the part itself, or the hype. Get the amp working.
Also don't limit yourself to what you can get locally. If you have a CC and a fax, mail order from Europe or the US. Apart from a few things I get surplus or from RS/Farnell, I import almost all of it because it's not available anywhere near where I live. Postage for small parts is very reasonable, and there are a heap of reputable sellers of quality parts out there. Suggestions later if you like.
Enjoy
It's easy to get hung up on component differences. Get the circuit absolutely spot-on, then tinker with components. Every so often (not usually on this forum), we see designs that flout the rules of good electronic design that are stuffed full of "designer" components.
In general, foil capacitors are better than metallised, but they're much bigger and more expensive. Ranking of plastic dielectrics (least leaky to most): PTFE, styrene, propylene, carbonate, ester. Mica is variable because there are lots of different types.
Electrolytics designed for use in switch-mode powere supplies are usually better than standard (lower ESR and inductance).
Inductance in wirewound resistors is only an issue <1k. There is no significant inductance in any wirewound resistor above this value. Nevertheless, Mills W/W NI are popular. (I haven't tried them yet.)
PTFE and ceramic valve bases are best (less leaky). Try to avoid phenolic if possible.
In the end, "It ain't what you do, it's the way that you do it."
In general, foil capacitors are better than metallised, but they're much bigger and more expensive. Ranking of plastic dielectrics (least leaky to most): PTFE, styrene, propylene, carbonate, ester. Mica is variable because there are lots of different types.
Electrolytics designed for use in switch-mode powere supplies are usually better than standard (lower ESR and inductance).
Inductance in wirewound resistors is only an issue <1k. There is no significant inductance in any wirewound resistor above this value. Nevertheless, Mills W/W NI are popular. (I haven't tried them yet.)
PTFE and ceramic valve bases are best (less leaky). Try to avoid phenolic if possible.
In the end, "It ain't what you do, it's the way that you do it."
The question is rather meaningless. The "best" component depends on what it's being used for and where it's being used. For example, a low ESR cap which is better to use in a switching regulator can be a disaster used on the output of a series regulator. A cap which is lousy for coupling or EQ may be the best choice in a spot where RF bypassing is needed. And so on and so on. Stop worrying about universals and concentrate on the specifics.
If what you want to know is what's fashionable, the question makes sense and please ignore everything I've said. If you want to know what the trade-offs are in selecting components for actual performance, a good start would be Bob Pease's book.
If what you want to know is what's fashionable, the question makes sense and please ignore everything I've said. If you want to know what the trade-offs are in selecting components for actual performance, a good start would be Bob Pease's book.
The resistor story!
Hi analog_sa !
Yes ...in a bobin(inductor)!
But in a wirewond resistor the wire is about the same...only the resistivity of the wire change!
About the values...imagine that a resistor have a inductance that make a impedance of 10 Ohms at 1Mhz....if it was a 10 Ohm resistor at 1Mhz you will have 20 Ohms...+100%... but if this resistor is 1k at the same frequency we have 1,01 KOhm...more 1%...
regards
Jorge
Hi analog_sa !
Yes ...in a bobin(inductor)!
But in a wirewond resistor the wire is about the same...only the resistivity of the wire change!
About the values...imagine that a resistor have a inductance that make a impedance of 10 Ohms at 1Mhz....if it was a 10 Ohm resistor at 1Mhz you will have 20 Ohms...+100%... but if this resistor is 1k at the same frequency we have 1,01 KOhm...more 1%...
regards
Jorge
Three words: beeswax, beeswax, beeswax! I'm referring to the Jupiter's of course. I found them to be perfectly balanced - not quite "silky" in the highs, but nearly there. Bass response was pronounced and full... I hesitate to say there was addition going on - but regardless, not lacking across the lows. Midrange was typical of better PIO's, if erring slightly toward the Jensens on more vigorous passages. You can tell I am NOT a fan of their later offerings.
Now, if only they could make these in PSU sizes...
For resistors, I know this departs from current thinking, but I've had great success with very low cost wirewounds - brands such as Ohmite for example. These must be the ceramic bodied types - preferrably with the brown enamel coating. The cement bodied types are horrendous of course. But the ceramics offer a response somewhere in between a bulk foil and a NOS carbon comp. Very pleasing on vocals especially. If you're typically playing aggressive orchestral stuff, I'd stay clear of these and stick to Mills or Caddocks.
I would have to disagree about the "universal" vs topological component choices - I think if you find a good sounding part, then it should sound good everywhere. If it doesn't, check your amp! Also, IME many a bad circuit decision has been, at least "smoothed over" by successful passive choices. But, your mileage may vary!
Hope that helps!
Now, if only they could make these in PSU sizes...
For resistors, I know this departs from current thinking, but I've had great success with very low cost wirewounds - brands such as Ohmite for example. These must be the ceramic bodied types - preferrably with the brown enamel coating. The cement bodied types are horrendous of course. But the ceramics offer a response somewhere in between a bulk foil and a NOS carbon comp. Very pleasing on vocals especially. If you're typically playing aggressive orchestral stuff, I'd stay clear of these and stick to Mills or Caddocks.
I would have to disagree about the "universal" vs topological component choices - I think if you find a good sounding part, then it should sound good everywhere. If it doesn't, check your amp! Also, IME many a bad circuit decision has been, at least "smoothed over" by successful passive choices. But, your mileage may vary!
Hope that helps!
JDeV said:
SY said:
Just wanted to know exactly what I asked, because I read in a article on op-amps that for bypassing you must use polyester film caps, so wanted to know if there are specific types of "constructions", materials that work the best specific in tube circuits. Surely a Dale metalfilm resistor would almost always sound better then a 5 cents noname 1. (For example!!!)
But is it always better to use metalfilm resistors then carbonfilm resistors??
That's all.
COMPONENTS.
Hi,
No, not necessarily.
There are no general rules here just personal preferences.
For instance, people say good things about a certain brand X today but tomorrow it may be something else.
Things to avoid in resistors are magnetic lead-out wires, inductance, noise.
Most importantly, you have to be aware of the manufacturer's specs such as maximum voltage ratings and wattage.
One can use passive components to mask or voice a piece of equipment, some people know what they're doing but it can be a minefield too.
Cheers,
Hi,
No, not necessarily.
There are no general rules here just personal preferences.
For instance, people say good things about a certain brand X today but tomorrow it may be something else.
Things to avoid in resistors are magnetic lead-out wires, inductance, noise.
Most importantly, you have to be aware of the manufacturer's specs such as maximum voltage ratings and wattage.
One can use passive components to mask or voice a piece of equipment, some people know what they're doing but it can be a minefield too.
Cheers,
Profound and true. Back in the '70s, the rage was to modify tube amps by pulling out paper or paper/oil dielectric coupling caps and replace them with polyester. Everyone reported that this improved the sound of the amps.
Back in the '80s, the rage was to modify tube amps by pulling out those polyester dielectric coupling caps and replacing them with polypropylene or fluorocarbon. Everyone reported that this improved the sound of the amps.
Then in the '90s, the rage was to modify tube amps by pulling out those polypropylene dielectric coupling caps and replace them with... paper or paper oil. And everyone reported that this improved the sound of the amps.
Cynical? Me?
SY said:
However, the paper capacitors pulled out in the 70s were probably those dark brown or black Hunts things where the outer casings cracked with age, allowing moisture to enter - which is the death of capacitors. (And the following valve.) If so, then the polyester replacements probably were better than the aged paper capacitors.
Whereas polypropylene is a specific material, there are lots of forms of paper, and lots of types of oil. Thus, we really can't generalise at all about paper capacitors. I'm not sure it's true to say that everybody prefers paper over polypropylene.
Component choice really is a fashion minefield...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.