SimpleSE Under Chassis Mounting

Zap · 30th March 2008, 10:19 PM

I can't seem to find the information at the moment, but I'm sure one of the other SimpleSE builders would be able to tell me what size the standoffs are used for under chassis mounting. I believe they are to be 1/2 inch long, but can anyone tell me the fastener size and corresponding screw size?

I'm in the process of building my enclosure, which the top plate has been machined. (being a student I worked in the shop at school- it takes A LOT of time to precision machine a top plate!) All I need to do is drill and tap the mounting holes for the board itself.

Pictures should follow soon enough

Thanks!

whitelabrat · 1st April 2008, 01:22 AM

I kinda cheated and I used bolts and rubber grommets. Then I sandwiched the PCB using nuts and toothed washers. Ain't pretty, but I could make any fine adjustments so the spacing would be right on.

The size can be anything that will fit through the holes.

I think I use a #8 size bolt/nut?

tubelab.com · 1st April 2008, 01:23 AM

I don't know what others are using, but I am not using spacers. I use a #6 or #8 screw that is 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch long. Thread it through the chassis from the top, and put a nut on it and tighten it. Then thread on another nut, stopping about 1/2 inch above the chassis (from the bottom). Then add the PC board. Adjust the nuts as needed to get the tube sockets at the right height. Then add a washer and another nut to hold the board and tighten them from below using a nut driver.

chrish · 1st April 2008, 02:37 AM

Think I did the same as TubeLab. However, all you need to do is measure things after soldering up the components. You need to have the chassis and board far enough apart so that the above board components don't touch the chassis, yet close enough for the valve sockets not to be (too far) below deck.

Cheers!

Chris

lousymusician · 3rd April 2008, 03:00 AM

I used either 3/4" or 5/8" threaded plastic standoffs. The screws are #8-32 button heads. You could use shorter standoffs, but I didn't want to see the white tube sockets above the top of the chassis. I made the holes for the tubes a bit oversized to allow for some ventilation.

The only components I put on top of the board are the tube sockets. Everything else is underneath.

Bill

30th March 2008, 10:19 PM	#1
Zap diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Milwaukee, WI	SimpleSE Under Chassis Mounting I can't seem to find the information at the moment, but I'm sure one of the other SimpleSE builders would be able to tell me what size the standoffs are used for under chassis mounting. I believe they are to be 1/2 inch long, but can anyone tell me the fastener size and corresponding screw size? I'm in the process of building my enclosure, which the top plate has been machined. (being a student I worked in the shop at school- it takes A LOT of time to precision machine a top plate!) All I need to do is drill and tap the mounting holes for the board itself. Pictures should follow soon enough Thanks!

1st April 2008, 01:23 AM	#3
tubelab.com diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: South Florida	I don't know what others are using, but I am not using spacers. I use a #6 or #8 screw that is 1 inch or 1 1/4 inch long. Thread it through the chassis from the top, and put a nut on it and tighten it. Then thread on another nut, stopping about 1/2 inch above the chassis (from the bottom). Then add the PC board. Adjust the nuts as needed to get the tube sockets at the right height. Then add a washer and another nut to hold the board and tighten them from below using a nut driver. __________________ Too much power is almost enough! Turn it up till it explodes - then back up just a little.

3rd April 2008, 03:00 AM	#5
lousymusician diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: NorCal	I used either 3/4" or 5/8" threaded plastic standoffs. The screws are #8-32 button heads. You could use shorter standoffs, but I didn't want to see the white tube sockets above the top of the chassis. I made the holes for the tubes a bit oversized to allow for some ventilation. The only components I put on top of the board are the tube sockets. Everything else is underneath. Bill __________________ The difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference between theory and practice, but in practice there is.

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1st April 2008, 01:22 AM	#2
whitelabrat diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Maryland	I kinda cheated and I used bolts and rubber grommets. Then I sandwiched the PCB using nuts and toothed washers. Ain't pretty, but I could make any fine adjustments so the spacing would be right on. The size can be anything that will fit through the holes. I think I use a #8 size bolt/nut?

1st April 2008, 02:37 AM	#4
chrish diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Sydney	Think I did the same as TubeLab. However, all you need to do is measure things after soldering up the components. You need to have the chassis and board far enough apart so that the above board components don't touch the chassis, yet close enough for the valve sockets not to be (too far) below deck. Cheers! Chris

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