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Old 6th February 2009, 08:27 AM   #31
pukka is offline pukka  Spain
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Quote:
Originally posted by kvk
Well I posted on the Edcor support Forum about whether the GXSE is suitable for hifi and the word is that it's just got more low extension the the XSE but doesn't give up anything.

So, if I get my act together and start collection stuff to build a SimpleSE, I thinka I'll give the GXSE a try. It looks like such a good price point.

Did you reach any conclusion regarding that? I'm about to pay and still wondering between XSE or GXSE for a tubelab's simple SE...
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Old 6th February 2009, 09:09 AM   #32
chrish is offline chrish  Australia
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Pukka, I would not hesitate getting the GXSE. After reading this thread, I purchased a pair for a future project. When I built my Simple SE, they were not available, so I went for the XSE.

The problem with both of these transformers is not their performance, but the exposed solder tags for connecting the B+ etc. I have seen these mounted the same as a horizontal mount power transformer, and that is how I would do it in the future. To do this you remove the pressed metal with the mounting tabs. The laminations have holes in them that you can use to pass a bolt through to mount. Cut a square hole in the chassis large enough for the bobbin and solder tags to pass through and mount horizontal with no exposed wires...

Wish I had seen that trick before my build!

Chris
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Old 6th February 2009, 12:44 PM   #33
pukka is offline pukka  Spain
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Already ordered the GXSE's... after scouting google they seem to be a XSE evolution, XSE's perfected. the only "guitar" in its class is the marketing one, as guitar OPTs are far more sold thant hifi ones.

Funny you mention that way of mounting, is the one I had in mind! hope stray flux doesn't cause problems, but I have seen them inside amps, so that should be a worry.

BTW, any pointers for optimal CCS calculation on the IXYS & driver stage? I'd like to try using 6N1P and 6H30 after the initial as per tubelab's specs build...
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Old 6th February 2009, 01:13 PM   #34
chrish is offline chrish  Australia
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My advice would be to just leave it be with the 12AT7/ECC81 driver, as that is what it was designed to use. The 12A*7 valves have a heater pinout different to the Russian 6*** valves. The clue is in the first number in the valve designator. 12 stands for 12.6 volt heaters, 6 for 6.3 volt heaters. In the 12A*7 valves you can parallel the two heaters to run 6.3 volts by joining pins 4 and 5 together and joining one side of the 6.3 volts to them and the other to pin 9. The Simple SE uses 6.3 volt heater supply in this configuration. In the Russian valves the 6.3 volts will go between pins 4 and 5. To make this work you will have to hack the PC board heater supply. Not sure what your amp building experience is like, but if you screw up the heater wiring layout you can introduce hum. The board, as designed, is dead quiet. I would stick with the specified input valve and experiment with output valves if you want to play around.

The CCS is set up fine for the 12AT7 with the recommended parts. George knows his stuff. If you want to try different valves and different currents, the IXYS data sheet gives the graph for the resistor values to vary the current.
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