Printed circuit board designing?

Psychobiker · 18th February 2008, 10:10 PM

Hey,

Using headers for all the valves, OP and IP trafo/choke connections, is it viable to put the rest on a circuit board? Just thinking it'd lessen the likelihood of stuff shorting out etc. I've Protel, and access to a milling machine

L

Robert McLean · 18th February 2008, 10:54 PM

Yes, absolutely. Many new amps are built that way.

For the valves, rather than use a header connected by a cable to the valve socket on the chassis, ( which is what I think you are describing ), you can use a pcb type tube socket instead. Or what I have done is use a regular old chassis type tube socket on the pcb with short jumper wires connected to points on the board.

Psychobiker · 18th February 2008, 11:25 PM

I was thing that, but there's a problem with some of the capacitors and clearances to the top of the chassis

!!

L

Jeb-D. · 19th February 2008, 12:35 AM

If your trying to do PCB but panel mounting the tubes. Design it so that the sockets are mounted on the opposite side of the PCB from the components.

Psychobiker · 19th February 2008, 10:25 AM

Yup - I've personally chosen a PCB WAY bigger than I need, so that'll allow me to have a bank of connectors at one end (power), another at the other (valves), and keep all the components over by the power end, and keep the tracks well away from each other - ie. all the components are about 2x2", board is 9x12"....

Jeb-D. · 19th February 2008, 04:30 PM

Since you said component clearance was not enough with chassis top. It was suggested to mount the components on the opposite side of the board. Meaning mount the components on the bottom of the PCB and mount the sockets on the top. Clearence issue will be solved.

See how the sockets are mounted on the opposite side

It allows you to panel mount the tubes when using a PCB.

Psychobiker · 20th February 2008, 01:08 AM

All well and good, but our machine don't do that

Iain McNeill · 20th February 2008, 04:59 AM

Is the problem that you have to mirror the connections to the tube sockets?

Psychobiker · 20th February 2008, 10:41 AM

On second thought, that actually shouldn't be a problem

Psychobiker · 23rd March 2008, 12:14 AM

Jeb - is your heater wiring onboard?!

I've kept my HT and signal onboard (DC doesn't interfere with signal

) and kept heaters offboard so they can be overkill-style treated for interfering with signal with twisting and braiding etc.

L

18th February 2008, 10:10 PM	#1
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	Printed circuit board designing? Hey, Using headers for all the valves, OP and IP trafo/choke connections, is it viable to put the rest on a circuit board? Just thinking it'd lessen the likelihood of stuff shorting out etc. I've Protel, and access to a milling machine L

18th February 2008, 10:54 PM	#2
Robert McLean diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Stittsville, Ontario, Canada	Yes, absolutely. Many new amps are built that way. For the valves, rather than use a header connected by a cable to the valve socket on the chassis, ( which is what I think you are describing ), you can use a pcb type tube socket instead. Or what I have done is use a regular old chassis type tube socket on the pcb with short jumper wires connected to points on the board. __________________ Robert McLean

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18th February 2008, 11:25 PM	#3
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	I was thing that, but there's a problem with some of the capacitors and clearances to the top of the chassis !! L

19th February 2008, 12:35 AM	#4
Jeb-D. diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: SoCal	If your trying to do PCB but panel mounting the tubes. Design it so that the sockets are mounted on the opposite side of the PCB from the components.

19th February 2008, 10:25 AM	#5
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	Yup - I've personally chosen a PCB WAY bigger than I need, so that'll allow me to have a bank of connectors at one end (power), another at the other (valves), and keep all the components over by the power end, and keep the tracks well away from each other - ie. all the components are about 2x2", board is 9x12"....

19th February 2008, 04:30 PM	#6
Jeb-D. diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: SoCal	Since you said component clearance was not enough with chassis top. It was suggested to mount the components on the opposite side of the board. Meaning mount the components on the bottom of the PCB and mount the sockets on the top. Clearence issue will be solved. See how the sockets are mounted on the opposite side It allows you to panel mount the tubes when using a PCB.

20th February 2008, 01:08 AM	#7
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	All well and good, but our machine don't do that

20th February 2008, 04:59 AM	#8
Iain McNeill diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Santa Cruz, California	Is the problem that you have to mirror the connections to the tube sockets?

20th February 2008, 10:41 AM	#9
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	On second thought, that actually shouldn't be a problem

23rd March 2008, 12:14 AM	#10
Psychobiker diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Montréal QC	Jeb - is your heater wiring onboard?! I've kept my HT and signal onboard (DC doesn't interfere with signal ) and kept heaters offboard so they can be overkill-style treated for interfering with signal with twisting and braiding etc. L

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