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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Albury NSW Australia
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It had to happen.
I race karts and spend much of the day working on the kart between races. I know I could do this much simpler but I dont like shallow gradients in life. I figure 5 watts or so should do the trick. Firstly what valve(s) , I would love to use a pentode as the input stage( to avoid 2 stages as it where) Secondly, I could use an inverter (pure sine wave) but I am thinking a dc to dc converter along the lines of Steve Bench's as I figure there will be less losses. I may need to find some unobtanium but am looking as we speak. Thanks for your time Nick Mega
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"Better to say nothing and keep them guessing than to speak and remove all doubt." |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Nick. I've been daydreaming about some of the same ideas as you.
I am currently building my own BIG high-power car amp based on LM3886 audio amps but one day I would like to build a well powered tube amp. I realized early on the challenge was not really the amplifier but the SMPS (power supply). I built some that are +/-35V and have PCBs as well. Also built the Silicon Chip magazine tube preamps, that have a DC-DC 12V to +260V supply. I am saying I know it can be done. There are almost no examples on the web but I'm pretty sure modifying the transformer ratio in the SMPS to provide the +300V or whatever it is will do the trick. What do you think? I don't have a real starting point for the amp design itself either...for high power I mean (maybe 50W +/-). I don't know if you'll get good replies here as almost no one has ACTUALLY BUILT a high power car tube amp in DIY, just little 1W or whatever units. Fun fact: Years ago there was an award winning BMW with a Milbert BaM-235ab tube amp (very expensive) I noticed was based on an old Milbert design. Racked up a load of awards and magazine articles. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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I used to race carts and found that headphones made for helicopters are the best option. They are not very hi-fi-ish, but good enough to silence a motor sound and reproduce a music well. The main drawback, of course, is attention that a music takes from the cart driving. But a plus is, you may take a cheap inverter and get 170V from it that is enough to power a decent amp that drives headphones. You'll need a filament transformer only that may be an ordinary one made for 60 Hz frequency. However, I assume an American inverter, 120V AC/ 60 Hz.
However, the construction has to be very rugged, optimized for weather conditions, vibrations, and accelerations.
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The devil is not so terrible as his mathematical model! Wavebourn: We Create Creativity! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Here's a power transformer that may be useful
Weber WPDLPT $20.00 Unique transformer with 12VAC input and 260VAC output. Allows one to build a full voltage tube effects pedal powered by a 12V wall wart. https://taweber.powweb.com/store/magnetic.htm |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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Whoops, I think I misunderstood your meaning! :/
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Albury NSW Australia
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Thanks to all for replying.
Marty is on the right track for my intended use. Many think I am odd anyway, but to race with music may well encourage the men in white suits to rescue me! To be clear, I want to be able to listen to music whilst in the pits, between racing as it where or when I'm practising. If I am happy with the results of the tube escapades for my Trailer, I will then turn my attention to my car(s). I know this is doable but of course its new territory. The trailer I have wil have a large boat type deep cycle gel battery so I need to limit power consumption to a realistic level. I figure keeping the design simple with as few tubes as possible will help. Marty, at least your wish to build one for the car isnt limited by the need to run solely of the battery, so for 50W you would probably do alright with a 6550 type tube with accompanying input tubes and phase splitters. The easy option would be to build a coventional amp and use an Inverter and hang the inefficiency. Nick
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"Better to say nothing and keep them guessing than to speak and remove all doubt." |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: NJ
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You might be able to modify an "inverter". That's a device that takes 12V car battery power and converts it to what they call a "modified sine wave" 120V output. All that is is a square wave with dead time inserted at zero crossings, to produce 120V RMS though the peaks are about 150V, a little like the peaks of the real powerline. I think all they do to create that is to have a SMPS DC-DC converter to go from 12V to 150V DC, and then use switching FETs in a bridge circuit to create the modified sine wave output. You might be able to just grab the 160DC ahead of the FET bridge. This assumes that there's isolation between the 12V in and 160V out, or that the negative end of that 160VDC is strapped to either side of the 12V in. If the positive side of the 160VDC is strapped to the 12V, that's a bit ackward...
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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hi
im looking at building some tube amps for my car to i see one company has already started doing them but with a price tag of £5 grand pluss i dont think i will be buying one besides that would be no fun i have used inverters from 12 vdc to 240v ac before and they are useless much to much humm and a horribe ac frequency out the other problem i can see is correct me if im wrong the use of a false ground for want of a better word at car ground =12vnegative i may have got that wrong so to summerise i want to use an el34 type amp so the problems i have are bumping 12 v dc up to 350v ish and 150v ish then once thats sorted things should be straight foward possibly i would like to hear peoples views on how to go about this or if youve done it even better many thanks link for car valve amps http://www.genesiscaraudio.net/press/genesisp15.doc althought these may just be valve buffered solid state amps on further inspection but they did it some how but how ?? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
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on second thought i came across this
my thinking is this car audio speakers tend to be very efficient in my case i run diamond hex components 91db so with 1 watt i get 91 db or there abouts so with even a modest 3.5-4 watts you are looking aprox 100db quite reasonable im not into deafening myself so heres the idea i found a ab circuit very simple only 2 13m7 s per ch which is bassed around a 24v supply much easier to come by than 300 odd volts from scratch http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk/tubestuf/mnibl2-2.htm then i got to looking at the other amps on this site http://www.dogstar.dantimax.dk/tubestuf/mnibl2-2.htm that came up it is only 1 watt but runns from a 12 volt supply boosting it to 35v dc for the grid bias could this form a basis for another higher power amp such as an el34?or it could be uprated to provide the 35v grid bias voltage for the 3.5 watt class a amp bot amps have a built in pre amp which can be tweeked to become a line driver type circuit i think any thoughts |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Jamie.
If you want to do that, you can certainly do it. Basically you will need to duplicate what I'm doing currently for building a multi-channel (chip amp based) car amp: 1. switching power supplys, with higher output voltage 2. Your amplifier(s) module The SMPS (switchmode power supply) will provide an isolated ground on it's output side; this will also, in the case of preamps, etc., allow eliminating ground loop noise. I've done it-it works! (Used that on my tube preamps in the car) I'm not saying it's easy. But if you read the principles behind SMPS designs you will see it will take a much higher turns ratio when you build the transformer vs. what you would use for a typical car amp supply (say 300V vs. 28-35V) I have found some simple high-power tube amp schematics on the web but confess I am waiting to finish my chip amp amplifier before starting down that road. Take a peek at this: Tube amp-813 based (high power) Also, I found the schematic on which the Milbert car tube amp versions are based on somewhere on the web...but they're more complex schematics. Get a working SMPS with proper voltage output and you're 'home free' almost. That's how I got my tube preamps (+260v) working in the car. Same principle. PS: I think you're right about most of the "tube" car amps...a lot were (or may still be) solid state transistor based with tube preamps, not 100% tube. My old Planet Audio HVTs were like that. |
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