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Old 12th May 2008, 02:26 AM   #11
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Hey Ben10

I just finished the same S-5 K16LS Kit. I upgraded all of the caps, it reduced the hum considerably. I have to agree, for a cheap little kit, these sound good! My next brain fart will be to get rid of the silicone in the power supply with center tapped hammond transformer, and a 5u4gb tube. Another item I added was a 8 henrie choke in the power supply.
I didn't get the optional tone control, but instead the pre-amp kit. I have a very small listening room, and it will blow you completely out!
Even using cheap Jensen MOD speakers...

I am still amazed at how clean and in depth the sound is! My only other experience with tubes has been guitar amps, no hi-fi.
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Old 14th May 2008, 10:08 PM   #12
123rmp is offline 123rmp  United States
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The chasis I am using is being custom made by a friend of a friend who owns a metal fab shop. It's all aluminimum and is 13X13 inches at the base. The base is 3 inches in height. The back 5 inches of the base will stick up an additional 6 inches. So the first 8 inches (front to back) is your standard 3 inch box. But the back 5 inches steps up to form a backboard on and in which I can put things. In the flat base the main board of the amp goes with tubes thru holes - standard style On the back, step up part I am installing the tone and base contol board, placing the transformers, installing some retro VU meters, and installing all switches, illumination indicators and pot knobs. I am relocating all volume, tone and bass pots of course and adding a 4 way stereo rotary switch to change between inputs. On the tone /bass control there is a tube. That sticks out with the top pointing to you, 90 degress from the other tubes sticking up.

I'm going for a retro, industrial sort of look. Attached is a sketch.
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Old 14th May 2008, 10:29 PM   #13
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If the pieces on the vertical are switches/knobs I would rethink that placement due to heat from the tubes(affecting the plastic) and the chances burning your hands by brushing up against the tubes while trying to adjust the volume (ouch).
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Old 14th May 2008, 10:33 PM   #14
SY is offline SY  United States
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Are there any schematics? It might be that a few easy changes could significantly improve things.
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Old 15th May 2008, 03:45 AM   #15
123rmp is offline 123rmp  United States
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Regarding the comment about heat etc. The heat will go up away from the back - I also did a cardboard mockup to make sure the hand burning thing would be ok. You make some good points and may be ultimately proven right but I'm forging ahead. One thing I can do if needed is put in a fan. Still 90% of the heat in this amp is right off the top of the tubes. As they are out in the air the heat should not build up in that back area. And I do plan to have the back covered with a grill.

Regardng the request for a schematic, I had it in an earlier post.

Here's a link :

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attac...amp=1210002142

Hope it works. Any easy suggestions for improvement appreciated.
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Old 15th May 2008, 05:07 AM   #16
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my main concern was having the tubes in front of and below the controls. All it would take is a casual touch and you've got a nice burn.
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Old 15th May 2008, 05:42 PM   #17
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Hi everyone,

I built a K-502 from AES some months ago. The schematic looks quite similar to the K-16LS although it is a simple PP amp (not parallel).
I did a few cheap modifications that improved the overall performance:

- Get rid of the bridge rectifier and replace it with four Fast Recovery or Schottky diodes (I used cheap UF4007, but Schottkys might be a better choice). I also added some snubber caps across the HT and filament supplies. Makes the amp more quiet.

- I paralleled the HT cap (C10 in your schemo) with a Solen 22uF PP film.
Hugh improvement in detail (Highs, but also in bass - maybe a case of placebo, since I have no switch to go back and forth). Even if Placebo, I liked this mod very much.

- I replaced all coupling caps (the 0.22uF films) with Solen 0.22uF PP film (cheap). Higher quality (like Auricaps etc. might give further improvement).

- Replaced the stereo potentiometer with an ALPS Blue Velvet Stereo pot. No obvious sound improvement, but hopefully more reliable.

On the contrary, bypassing the cathode resistors (R12 and 25) with 220uF low ESR electrolytics did not help for my ears - actually sounded worse?!?

These are a few simple and very cheap modifications I have done that helped a lot. Especially the diodes help to quite the amp down.
The cap mods made some sound improvements.
I was so happy about that amp that I did not feel bad to give it to a very close friend who likes it very much. If this is how a low quality tube amp sounds - how much better can a high quality amp be?
This amp actually made me enjoy listening to music so much that it was hard to turn it off in many cases.

I hope you enjoy your K-16LS as much.
Regards,
Martin
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Old 15th May 2008, 07:10 PM   #18
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SY,

I think this post has a schematic.
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Old 15th May 2008, 07:32 PM   #19
SY is offline SY  United States
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Thanks! I'm struck by how low the voltages are on the driver stage. I'd start by getting them higher, which will probably require adding another transformer.
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Old 4th June 2008, 05:28 PM   #20
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SY,

If one had a great big pile o' 6005's and were considering to do a point-to-point build of this amp, what mods might you suggest.

The only major difference I'd throw in would be a 8k primary OPT with 8-16-32 ohm secondaries. Pentode mode only. I figure 4k ohm primaries should be OK.
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