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| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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Guys,
Can ya please check out this 813SE design ? Im about ready to get underway; and Im not second guessing my op point for the 813... I have the B+ coming out of the PSU @ 900v, and 100mA on the plate. I know this tube can be pushed WAY harder; but would there be any benefit ? My OPT's can take up to 1.2kV/50w ![]() Thanks ! Steve |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Central PA
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Steve,
Harder perhaps, but not "way" harder. I can't find any charts on this for Class A operation. Maybe you should bias it for class C? It's gonna get warm! But I DO want to hear it when you get it "cookin"! ---ART--- |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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A couple of points.
First, if you are using AC for the 813's filament then do include a humbucker pot - I fould these very useful and my 813 project was a p-p amplifier. Second, how much current are you running throught the paralleled 6SN7? There will need to be quite a bit. I would prefer (no doubt it's stereo?) to run the second 6SN7 as a cathode follower; this would drive the 813 much better. 900V and 100mA is an excellent operating point for an 813. I experimented with UL without feedback and the sound was very poor (high anode resistance) Depending on the primary impedance of your transformer, you might well prefer it as a triode - it makes a very good triode indeed, 7N7
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#4 | |
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tarmac ripper
diyAudio Member
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Quote:
I do agree. DC filaments are mandatory. In my amp the 813 was triode strapped (thanks for the curves) and running at 900V/100mA (fixed bias) with a 10K load (well... it was parafed) for +20W. I would not go with lower loads, but that is my personal take. Ciao Gianluca |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
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Steve...
Cool schemo...Hadn't thought of paralleling like that! Where did you find your OPT? My design is a bit different & I have found all my TXs' off the shelve but not the OPTs'. Take a look!......... _____________________________________Rick......... .. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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Gents,
Thanks for all the input ! I will be using a tentlabs fil supply; so it'll be regulated DC on the heater. I didn't give much thought into a CF; I paralleled the 6SN7's to get some more current into the 813....Maybe a 2nd tube for the CF that I will just split between the two channels ? My OPT was custom ordered from Heyboer; very reasonable price. I had it built to be 6K, 40% UL tap, 50w, and voltage up to 1.2kV. Any suggestions for a feedback circuit ? I would be interested in hearing some ideas... Richard - looks pretty cool - What does your PSU look like ? Here's my idea for my 900v B+ ![]() Thanks ! Steve |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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Quote:
At your operating point 6k would probably give good results with 813 triode-strapped (Ra = 1.8k). No suggestions for feedback, I cannot do the maths! 7N7
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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Quote:
Thanks ! Im out of my league a bit when it comes to your suggestion to 'elevate the heaters'. What does this mean exactly ? I'll see if I can find some triode curves; I do want to at least try it in UL first though Also, later this evening I'll see if I can rework the schematic a bit to include a CF and see what I can come up with for a NFB circuit... Thanks again ! Steve |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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Quote:
Every valve has its heater/cathode insulation limits specified in terms of the maximum voltage between the two. In most amplifiers, the heater supply is referenced to ground, so a typical supply is 3.15-0-3.15v giving 6.3v; the centre tap is connected to ground. A better practice is to attach the centre tap to say +40V, this in the words of Morgan Jones in his book "Valve Amplifiers" "turns off the 'diode'" that is created by the heater filament and the cathode of the valve. This is fine for valves that are running with their cathodes at around 0V. A cathode follower necessarily (unless the cathode is returned to a negative supply) has its cathode at perhaps 200V. In such a case the centre tap of the heater supply should be referenced to at least 200V. This is fully covered in "Valve Amplifiers". As for triode curves, I have a set; these my be found on Pete Millet's site - I am not at home at present so cannot send them to you. 7N7
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: The 1st State
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I see.....
So I understand the theory - but in practice what you are saying is that I should toss a resistor or voltage divider off of my 400v B+ line, and hook the CT of the 6.3v line to it ? Thanks again, Steve |
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