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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
-- josé k. |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Australia
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Hi Jose,
Bought them off ebay - coldfusionx is the seller. Bought a back up yesterday, so they are still for sale. Search for 20v panel meter, if you have problems, let me know and I will send a link. they come in blue, red and green and sell for about USD 25. Coldfusionx is a great seller BTW, very quick and efficient. Cheers, Rob |
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#23 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Looks like one of your offspring (backup units) is pleased with your work as well. Jack |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Beautiful, just beautiful.
What was your process for gold plating the aluminum? Copper first? |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Quote:
You had grid leak current in one of those. That is why I was talking about a blocking cap. Having healthy RCAs is the best solution obviously. Nice. You said something about less bass than with the EL34 amp. KT88 is normally superb in that. What is the configuration of your PSU? Same capacitors as in the schematic? I see many elcos in your pics though. |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
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A work of art! Very nice!
__________________
How do I put the smoke back in this thing? |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Rob;
I put the answer to the wrong thread by mistake. Here it is: Quote:
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#28 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Australia
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Quote:
Quote:
The configuration is very similar to the schematic but I have used the SDS caps board instead of the original electrolytics. Each board uses 8 x 100uf 450v caps, with the caps joined in pairs (with a resistor network). This gives you essentially 4 x 50uf with an appropriately high voltage rating. I was planning to use individual sprague electolytics but had trouble sourcing 30uf caps with the appropriate voltage rating. Otherwise the circuit is very similar except that - 1. I added a pot on the input side for volume control 2. I added a small transformer (which powers up when the amp is switched on through a mains isolator switch at the back) with solid state rectification to drive the LED panel meter, the LED in the switch and also to supply power for a couple of solid state relays (so I could use 12v through the on/off switch at the front and not 250v) |
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#29 | |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Quote:
200uF per channel is not poor. I believe you use no more than 50uF after each GZ34, then a choke, and then the 200uf combo, right? Because that tube must not be taxed with more than 50uF cap input filter. If like that, plus the bass sounds adequate by now, you are done. I must comment on the aesthetic and hardwiring quality too... Very nice indeed. |
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#30 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Champaign, Illinois
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Quote:
With a skin so beautiful and workmanship so grand your Dyna clone deserves something better than the original penny-thrift 6AN8 design! I'm not sure what transformers you used, but the originals are capable of excellent performance. With you beefed up power supply you should get excellent bass with better VA/driver circuit. I have both Dyna ST70 and Mk III's and replaced both front-end circuits with much overall improvement and no negatives that I could detect or measure. A lot had been written about the compromises made in the original designs and improvements suggested - there are several very good sounding PC boards/kits for sale. I will be happy to provide leads if you find yourself wondering about those. Anyway, wonderful work! Thanks also for the tips on your panel meter source. I must have some! |
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