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Old 9th January 2008, 03:15 AM   #21
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The XPWR033 - 760VCT @ 200mA, 6.3V (No CT) @ 5A, 5V @ 3A is probably close to the Allied unit since the Allied is really a Hammond, and they always put out too much voltage (compared to their specs). Use 500 volt rated electrolytics for C1 and C2 since your B+ voltage will be near 450 volts. I have run a SimpleSE on a 800 VCT Antek toroid and it really cranked but the B+ was 520 volts with SS rectifiers which is too much for common electrolytics. The 820 VCT transformer would be just too much. Even with HV caps, the tubes themselves would be smoking.

I have used chokes from 5 to 10 Henries at 175 mA or more. The DC resistance should be from 50 to 200 ohms. A lower resistance results in a higher B+ voltage. I usually use the Triad C-14X because it is cheap, but it is ugly, so I hide it under the chassis. The Hammond 193H or 193J can be used also.

For the cap I use a 50 to 100 uF 370 VAC (or higher) motor RUN cap. They will handle over 500 volts on DC. I got some 100 uF 370 VAC ASC caps on ebay cheap, but the seller has no more. The same seller has 80 uF 500 VAC motor RUN caps for cheap but they are not ASC brand. Other builders have used them with good results. Look at auction # 170078126766. Do NOT use a motor START cap. They are not rated for continuous use.
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Old 15th January 2008, 04:35 AM   #22
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George (& others),

Thanks for all of your extremely helpful input - most of the items are currently on their way to me at the moment. Is there any sort of machining template for the circuit board? (Screw holes and cutouts for tube sockets?)

I'm going to be constructing a chassis and I have access to a machine shop at school, so I figure I'll have an easier time making holes the exact size I want if I have center drill locations.

Thanks!
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Old 15th January 2008, 12:40 PM   #23
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Hey...
Not sure if it'll work on this board or not...It is kinda hit or miss; but I have found that placing the board down on a flat surface, and putting paper and carbon paper atop of it and rubbing with a piece of wood makes an excellent template to use as a drill guide.
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Old 15th January 2008, 01:18 PM   #24
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I have a PDF of the silkscreen layer. Can't figure out how to put it on my web site.

I can post it here tonight (if it fits) when I get home. I have also resorted to placing the PCB on a copy machine for quick templates.
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Old 16th January 2008, 02:39 AM   #25
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The PDF's are too big to attach here. Email, and I will reply with them. I have a clear schematic and board silkscreen layer with hole centers. I can only answer Tubelab email at night, it is forbidden at work.
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Old 16th January 2008, 08:38 AM   #26
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Any input on these motor RUN caps? Item # 180205364432

They are the same physical size and price, but higher (100uF) value.

Additionally, how much effect does the bigger choke have? Is the basic one good enough? Up to this point, I've been springing for all better quality (read more expensive) components, so I don't really want to cheap out on the last few things if they will make a difference.
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Old 16th January 2008, 09:39 AM   #27
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If it is any help, I think I made a template by taping the PCB to a sheet of paper and used a pencil to mark the screw holes through the holes on the PCB. For the tube centres, I made a pencil mark through the PCB for each hole for the tube socket legs and then used a ruler and pencil to join the opposite marks. This gave a "wagon wheel" type pattern with the lines all crossing in the centre point of the tube socket position. Remember thinking at the time that a small hole in the PCB at the centre of each tube socket would have made producing a template off the PCB easier, but no big deal.

Hope this helps,

Chris
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Old 20th January 2008, 06:09 PM   #28
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I'd appreciate any suggestions for the rectifier tube, given the additional 10V on the B+ from my transformer. I know that different tubes can be run (the 5AR4/GZ34 seems to be the standard for the SimpleSE from what I can tell) and that some have a bigger drop, so that might be advantageous for me.

Any suggestions for style/gauge/etc of hookup wire and type of coax for inputs are appreciated as well. I've heard that the MIL spec wire is well liked, but what gauge is commonly used?

Once I finalize the decision on the RUN cap and the rectifier, I will be set. I've also decided to use a NOS 12AT7 since the price is very reasonable and I've heard good things about the Sylvania and Philips from a few sources.

My Edcor's are on their way, got the tracking on Friday so hopefully they'll be here by mid week. I need to get the last few parts on order so I can hear my amp soon! I've got a quad of Shuguang Coke Bottle 6L6GCs to use as my initial set of inexpensive tubes upon fire up. I'm eventually thinking of trying a few different output tubes to see which ones I like best.

This project certainly has been a learning experience!
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Old 21st January 2008, 03:15 AM   #29
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Quote:
Any input on these motor RUN caps? Item # 180205364432
I have 100uF 370 VAC caps in my amp. Thet were made by ASC but don't seem to be available any more. These should work well.

Quote:
I know that different tubes can be run (the 5AR4/GZ34 seems to be the standard for the SimpleSE from what I can tell) and that some have a bigger drop, so that might be advantageous for me.
If you want to lose about 10 volts, use a 5V4. I like the sound of the 5AR4, and they are easier to find. 5U4's can be used but they heat up to fast allowing the B+ to come on before the output tubes are ready. I have had bad luck with the military 5R4GYB. Two out of two have blown up.

I think that the Shuguang coke bottle 6L6GC's can take 450 or more volts without any problems. I still have my first pair, and they were used when I got them. People who know me understand what I do to some tubes to find their limits (note, I don't abuse rare or valuable tubes). Mine have seen 525 volts and are still alive.

Antique Electronics Supply used to advertize the coke bottle 6L6GC by saying "We could not blow up this tube no matter how hard we tried." I took this as a challenge. The picture below shows one of my attempts. They are running at 44 watts of dissipation, about twice what most people run. This picture is 4 years old. This pair of tubes are STILL ALIVE today. I use them in most every experiment and new build for testing.
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File Type: jpg 6l6gc_44watts_b.jpg (65.1 KB, 368 views)
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Old 21st January 2008, 10:29 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by tubelab.com
I think that the Shuguang coke bottle 6L6GC's can take 450 or more volts without any problems.
I have a set of the newer slimmer ones in one of my guitar amps with right at 500volts on them pentode mode and they rock out in it with no problems...
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