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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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http://www.meanwelldirect.co.uk/prod...12/default.htm
I wonder if i use a switching powersupply unit for tube amp heaters, how will be the hum result ? Any other unexpectable problem? Please advise, Thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Hum is not generally an insurmountable problem with heaters because thermal inertia maintains a reasonable consistency of temperature.
A heater is also capacitively coupled to the cathode. This is a stray capacitance and is too small to be an issue with hum, but it can convey higher frequencies. Switch-mode supplies involve higher frequencies though I don't see why this couldn't be successful with care. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks. This unit switching at 83khz. I think this will not be audible. Actualy i am planning to use the 24v version for the GM70 output tube heaters only. This tube needs 20v-3A for filament.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: big smoke
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You might find this interesting: http://www.pmillett.com/hf_fil.htm
__________________
Ears aren't microphones. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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In my experience I find just about any junk on the filament supply has an audiable impact , heaters on the other hand are another matter altogether . I have often thought about using switchers , 7N7 reminded me of their usefulness a while ago **after** I'd built a huge 5V @ 10.5A fialment supply for Eimac VT127A . Those cheap low voltage lighting 'transformers' look like a good place to start . I'd use these with a hefty laminated choke to provide some isolation from the supply . I'm sure this would make an excellent supply for firing up 845/211/713 etc
cheers 316a |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South Florida
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Quote:
any news to report from your VT127A experiments? cheers, |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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hey-Hey!!!,
There are a few potential paths with switching filament supplies. One is to leave the AC square wave, and build a CT with a hum pot as is customary with 60 cps AC. Rectify the stuff comming from the wall through an isolation TX, wind a small step-down TX and switch the primary at 150kHz through a SE MOSFET. The gate-driver chips look quite easy to use. You want open-loop 50% duty cycle. The small, HF transformer will do a good job of isolating the filament from everything...no need for CMC as is often suggested for DC supplies. cheers, Douglas
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the Tnuctipun will return |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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Quote:
cheers 316A |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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I've used switchers for both DHT filament heating and indirect heated types without issues. I do recommend some additional filtering on the output however to really kill the ripple at the output. Basically this consists of a small common mode choke right on the output of the supply followed by a cap, a normal choke, and another cap - these caps should have good performance at high frequencies, some small film types should be fine. (Place larger ele types in parallel - but do so only if you have a scope and look at the behavior at the ripple frequency. Typical CM chokes will be a few hundred uH to a couple of mH, and the normal mode choke a couple of mH typically. You actually can often buy these if you hunt around. The parts are compact so you are not looking at a lot of size or weight, but for best results you will need a scope and some patience to iterate the circuit for best results.
You can get ridiculously low levels of noise out of a switcher this way, and if you need even better performance use a standard linear regulator (!choke on input!) to get you to the precise voltage you need at the filaments.
__________________
www.kta-hifi.net |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Dallas
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I have access to a bunch of scrapped/obsolete/not-for-
production Class-D amps that technically "work". I think some of them could fake a decent sine wave at 50KHz or higher. The actual switching frame rates are way up there. I had my eye on abusing them to light a pair of 814's. Needing 10V and 3.5 amps apiece. |
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