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#21 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
Unless specified explicitly you can derate easily using Ohm's law. With relays it is a different story, if you consider what they consist of I'm sure you'll understand why. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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Out of interest , would a tube thermal delay such as VLS631 be ideal or are these things too puny ?
316a |
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#23 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
1/Vacuum tube rectifiers have slow start built in. 2/I use solid state rectification and still want a slow turn on, what to do? A:use a thermistor, use a tube voltage reg.,use your hands and switch the heaters on prior to the B+... Countless possibilities really, a relay would be the last of my options. BTW, only when solid state rectification is used can a turn-on delay be justified....most of the time though I can't be bothered. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: West London
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Hybrids work fine , I have found that the otherwise useless PY500a with solid state works particularly well . Even the solid state 'gyrator' or 'active capacitor' has it's uses , I've never had luck with mosfets here and my bipolar darlington design goes west over 400V but they do work very well if you don't take the **** out of them . A PSE 845 amp with a large 'frankenstein' knife switch on the HT would really get the adrenaline flowing though !
316a |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Norge
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Quote:
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- Jan - |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Although valve rectifiers switch on gently, they don't necessarily give all the delay you need. Putting a thermal delay relay in series with the rectifier's heater adds the two delays together and ensures a nicely delayed soft start for fragile valves like 6528.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
I'd like to know more about that,pls. Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Yes, in the Tung-Sol/Chatham data sheet, the Application Notes recommend a 30s cathode warm-up time before applying anode volts. But I've measured valve rectifiers beginning to conduct rather sooner than that...
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Well yes, most regulator valves suffer from this actually. Come to think of it, low Ri, low mu, highish transconductance...asking for trouble when the B+ is slammed on, right? The biggest mess I was ever in was when my amps were flown back in from Birmingham and as I lived only ten miles from the airport I switched them on half an hour later. Wow...they all went into thermal runaway within ten minutes. Stupid really, should have thought about the luggage department not being pressurised. Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#30 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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Quote:
Quote:
__________________
The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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