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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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HI.
I am looking at building a (stereo) tube amplifier. my story is this, I have obtained a large power supply with a couple of large transforms and chokes. described as follows .....a large power supply chassis. The chassis has two very large power transformers, one Trimax and one A&R, and two very large Trimax chokes as well as 4 valves and high voltage caps etc. The Trimax power transformer is 425-0-425 @ 300mA secondary. The A & R model PT1934 with a HT secondary of 350-0-350 @ 175mA and Heater windings appear to include 1 x 5VCT @ 3A, 2 x 6.3V CT @ 3A. The chassis measures 400mm W x 200mm H x 260mm D. I sound a bit like a man who finds a set of keys, and decides to build a car to suit. I was thinking of using the williamson design, using el34's. I know I can buy something without the stress, but a bit like aman and a mountain (or a chicken and the road) there are somethings that just need to be done. Can anyone suggest if this is the best use of the transformers I have, or if not, any other or better suggestions for me. I am looking at about 20 - 30 watts per channel. I have 6 ohm speakers, sensitive at 91db. cheers |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: New Zealand
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Does the Trimax 850V unit have any heater windings? You could just use this one and ditch the other power transformer to clear some space on the chassis.
Rule of thumb is you get 1.2 times AC voltage. So you might get 500VDC out of that, useful for EL34 PP or more power with KT88s PP, or if you want to use vintage tubes, you could go for aussie made 807 pentodes. Put a voltage regulator tube in there to drop a couple of hundred volts for your small signal tubes and regulated screen grids (g2). You will need: 2 matched output transformers. The specs on these will determine what you can build... Get ones with ultralinear tappings if you can. However you can start simple- use the smaller transformer and build a 6V6 or EL84 PP amp, or even a SE amp ( simplest design ever!) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Thanx for the reply.
1. no, the 850 v trimax does not appear to have heater windings. It does have outputs of 200, 230 & 250. So I assume that I will need to use both transformers If I go with the original plan 2. start simple and work up from there: great idea. can you suggest a design? I would be happy to sacrifice some power, as I have reasonably sensitive speakers. Afterall, the wright brothers didnt design a jumbo jet as their first project. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
SHiFTY is correct. The Trimax 425-0-425 power trafo will do NICELY in powering a PP EL34 stereoblock. Having to use a separate filament trafo is a blessing in disguise, as you can SS rectify the B+ without worrying about SS diode noise sneaking into the heater supply. A CL150 inrush current limiter between the diodes and the 1st filter cap. will slow B+ rise down enough. I'm linking the Mullard 5-20 schematic, which could serve as a point of departure for the design ultimately used. Switch to "fixed" bias for the finals. For several reasons, a 12AT7/ECC81 is a BETTER choice than the 12AX7/ECC83 in the phase splitter "slot". Also, with the peak 2 VRMS drive from a CDP, a tube with less gain than the EF86 is (IMO) appropriate in the voltage gain position. edit: linked schematic
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Eli D. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I'd recommend the Williamson like you mentioned. B-e-a-utiful sounding amp when done right. Do it ultralinear for lots of power. I haven't heard an EL34 Williamson amp, but i suspect with all the feedback it will not sound too different than the 5881 and KT66 Williamsons I've listened to (Heathkit W4 ultralinear, craftsmen 500a triode). I'd recommend 6SN7's for the front end as opposed to 12AU7s or the like noval tubes. You will need decent output transformers for this though. Hammonds might not do.
http://www.clarisonus.com/Archives/A...0Amplifier.pdf |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Plainsboro, NJ
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Quote:
Hammond O/P trafos will not do for Williamson topology. Absolutely top notch O/P "iron" is necessary or the phase shifts will add up and cause instability. A well done Williamson is NICE, but not so easy to achieve at "modest" cost. The Mullard topology has fewer phase shifts, which reduces exposure to instability. Also, getting a 12AT7 in the signal path of PP amps is a GOOD thing. The 'T7 mates with PP "finals" to yield a "waterfall" for the NET harmonic distortion spectrum. That "waterfall" is PLEASING.
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Eli D. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Quote:
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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since a 98dB speaker is specified at 1W/1m, and a 3db increase is double the power (and the fun) ... it will take a little over 2 watts...to be exact: 10^(+4/10) = 2.51... then it is about 2.5 watts to push it to 102dB SPL
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Leverkusen
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Hi Eli,
Quote:
Mind you, I donīt dispute that better iron will make that task easier. But it is necessary in any case, if you want an unconditionally stable Williamson style amp. Which the original Williamson is not - regardless of its excellent Partridge iron. Regards, Tom Schlangen
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If in doubt, just measure. |
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