Point-to-Point, Pointers

[Jeb-D.]

Jonathan,
I searched point-to-point before and that's all that came up was vs. PCB stuff. Interesting reads, but it wasn't really helpful as far as tips for doing good P2P wiring.

 

[Jonathan Bright]

Yeh. Fair enough. I'd be interested in any results you get. If I get to "The Big City" one day I'll see if a uni' library has magazines with DIY stuff going back to the '60's where they actually spell this sort of material out for newcomers to the valve scene. For instance the UK "Wireless World" from that era would be a start and I imagine "Audio" in the States is another. Here in Oz we have a good local one so I might make that a holiday project in the new year. Just takes time...... Jonathan

 

[Shoog]

Apply a logical approach to layout.
Even if it doesn't look beautiful - if your logical - it will still sound beautiful.

My PP builds still look like rats nests (though they are getting better), but I now rarely have any issues with hum or oscillation and I run a sensitive system.

Shoog

 

[Gordy]

Hi all,

Well I do my "P to P" boards this way, as shown below: there is a lot of tinkering, ultra high patience on this but in the end the results are fine.
No noises, no hum and optimum strength for all supported components.
And excellent sound.
I use a 2mm fenolite board (with tag strips) just below the amp's top plate.
The board is supported on aluminum L shapes fixed to sides/front of the chassis.
You can see many other details and projects at:
http://vacuumtuberesearch.multiply.com/

[ ]s
Ricardo

Ricardo, your work looks excellent.


And now an example of the wrong way: (about half way down the page) http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/supratek3/dualcabernet.html

 

[soundbrigade]

I will use enamelled Cu-wire as it is stiff makes nice 90 degree bends and keeps components approx where I left them.

An advice I got from Russian friends was to cover all solder joints and exposed metal wire with shellack.

 

[Gordy]

Sensible advice: http://www.aikenamps.com/PCBorPTP.htm