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-   -   Point-to-Point, Pointers (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/110322-point-point-pointers.html)

Jeb-D. 18th October 2007 10:25 PM

Point-to-Point, Pointers
 
Anyone know of any sites that gives pointers for Point-to-Point wiring? I have always done PCB's in the past, but am going to do a point to point build. Electrically I have no questions. But as far as from a mechanical/aesthetic aspect.

-Tips to make it look clean?
-What type of terminal strips/ tag boards are recommended?
-How to do it without putting 100 small bolts through the chassis top plate?
-Keeping it easily servicable. I imagine mounting sockets on the top plate and mounting terminal strips on the bottom plate could create a headach when trying to service.

Thanks!

dre7 19th October 2007 12:57 AM

A well placed buss wire helps for ground connections. Also mounting your terminal strips under a transformer or tube socket nut.

gingertube 19th October 2007 04:24 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Its really usefull to consider these things right from the start of a project before you start "metal bashing". I have a large selection of tag strips on hand. Separation of tubes can then be made to suit those tag strips which have a mount each end. Place the tubes such that you can get a tag strip on either side using the tube socket mounting bolts.

Transformer mounting bolts can often have a metal tapped spacer under the chassis instead of a nut and these spacer can then have tag boards mounted on top of them.

The other thing I do since I use Hammond chassis, which is a powder coated black, is to use black cap head bolts. One or two extra of these showing above the chassis does not look particularly objectionable.

Example: This thing is full of tag strips underneath but few extra bolts show on top.

Cheers,
Ian

SHiFTY 19th October 2007 04:51 AM

Design it on paper first- it's a lot easier that way! Use tagboards if you can find them. Use short wire links to connect things. Fibreglass tag boards would be the ideal, because phenolic can "leak" apparently, but it's probably unobtainium.

Solder grid resistors and any other small components directly to the valve socket, and use a multiple star earthing layout.

Keep power supply parts well away from signal parts, and use shielded cable for sensitive areas.

Heater connections should be tight twisted and right against the metal chassis.

astouffer 19th October 2007 05:27 AM

The best advice I can give is look at how some other people have wired their amps. My early projects were messy and each one is a little better than the last. Mouser carries the old style terminal strips with a number of different lugs. Try part number 158-1005. You won't have 100 small bolts on top of the chassis unless you use those single point turrets. You could always use socket cap screws to look a bit more professional.

ray_moth 19th October 2007 05:57 AM

If you haven't already committed yourself to a particular chassis, make sure you don't use one that's too small. An excessively cramped layout can be hell to work on.:bawling:

SY 19th October 2007 06:15 AM

"Building Valve Amplifiers," Morgan Jones. Everything you seek and more.

Jeb-D. 19th October 2007 04:17 PM

lot's of good pointers!

Quote:

"Building Valve Amplifiers," Morgan Jones. Everything you seek and more.
You mean I have to quit being cheap and finally shell out the cash for a copy:D

SY 19th October 2007 07:07 PM

Yes. I will be seeing MJ in November and he needs the royalty money to buy me beer.

Steve Eddy 19th October 2007 07:30 PM

If you REALLY want to have some fun, check this out:

Wiring and Cabling: How To Lace Cable Harnesses

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