|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Tubes / Valves All about our sweet vacuum tubes :) Threads about Musical Instrument Amps of all kinds should be in the Instruments & Amps forum |
| diyAudio Sponsor | ||
|
|
||
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
Hey all, Don here over from the guitar tube amp world. I have built a number of amps using turrets and eyelets and want to now try out PCB. It has worked well for my power supplies and switching boards, now I am faced with the preamp and PI. I am looking for suggestions on PCB design tips for tube amps.
Here is what I have collected so far: - use double sided, with plated through holes - keep low impedance lines away from high impedance ones - signal on one side of the board, power and ground on the other - avoid parallel traces - either on the same side or opposite sides - if lines cross (either side of the board) try to cross at 90 degrees Any other suggestions? What about heater traces? Also not so sure about how to design with ground planes - won't this create a lot of capacitance? Perhaps any web sites or books on this? thanks! |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Montréal QC
|
Try and get a program called Protel, or what is now Altium 6 - it's a great schematic and PCB-layout program..dead handy
L |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
|
If I recall, Morgan Jones's book "Building Valve Amplifiers" recommends against using traces for heaters, as it complicates the design (heaters need lots of current too). It might be better to hard wire the heater pins (with tightly twisted wire of course).
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
|
Hi,
One other thing I'd like to suggest is 2.4mm board and 2oz copper. That's what the tube experimeter PCB's I sell are made from and so far, no lifted or cooked traces Cheers! PS: Fellow wetcoaster, you within "coffee range" of Chilliwack? |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
Hey all thanks for the replies.
Geek, I am on the island so a little far away for coffee, alas. I would love to check out your shop and vice versa. Do you do your PCBs in your shop or farm it out? I would love to find thick double sided board that has photo resist on it for my at home prototypes. I currently use MG chemicals boards - a little lightweight. Blisterfingers, I just ordered that book! I am looking forward to reading it. Psychobiker, I thought autorouters were a no-no in the tube amp world. Regardless I 'll will investigate. thanks!. |
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
|
Hi,
Well, we'll have to meet you on the Island at Planet10's summer diyAudio festival or something Quote:
Cheers! |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
Hey all you tube/PCB experts, I am starting to design a double sided board and I m wondering about the layers. What is best?
- signal on bottom side - power and switch signals on top side where to put the ground - should it be a ground plane? This is a preamp board with a few 9 pin sockets on it. thanks Don |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Montréal QC
|
We have been trained to never auto route with Protel.
Very very nice piece of software for schematic, PCB design L |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Diego, CA
|
There are design rules for trace width and how thick, oz. of copper...depending on the current density..
I have designed boards that handle 30 Amps for reliable flight operations.....so the heaters for tubes should not be a problem if done correctly... Ground plane is the only way to go.... Stay away from vias in audio path..... Chris |
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
|
In re-reading my note, obviously I was a touch mess up. My question, better put is here:
I am using a two-sided board. What sides do I put the B+, signal and ground plane on? So far, the signal is on the bottom side, and the B+ is on the top. I am not sure which side to put the ground. thanks |
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| For Sale: Tube Amps, Class-A Amps, BG Ribbons, Chassis and Other Goodies! | opc | Swap Meet | 23 | 2nd November 2009 05:04 PM |
| Numerical Solving Techniques for Optimum Crossover Design | thadman | Multi-Way | 5 | 21st May 2009 05:29 AM |
| First Watt F3 / Tube Audio Design TAD-125 Hibachi JFET amps | vizion | Tubes / Valves | 1 | 31st August 2008 03:08 AM |
| Tube pre-amps | Glowin Plates | Instruments and Amps | 5 | 20th May 2004 06:30 AM |
| Op Amps for Everyone Design Guide (Rev. B) | lohk | Solid State | 2 | 14th July 2003 11:15 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.10033 seconds (81.66% PHP - 18.34% MySQL) with 11 queries |