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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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I have been tweaking / playing around with a simple Guitar amp design using the Edcor XSE 15-8-5K transformer trying to get a good sound using a cathode biased 6V6 and switchable for 6L6.
Right now, In the 6L6 switch position I get a really nice balanced sound. Plenty of clean headroom and excellent volume. In the 6V6 position, Things are not exactly as I hoped. The clean headroom is lower, which I expected, But it is rather Fizzy when distorting in the upper volume ranges. I suspect it is not biased for correct dissapation, But it is common in guitar amps to hit 6V6's pretty hard. I am using JJ 6V6S which can handle voltage extremes pretty well, but it still seems a bit hot. No red plating is occuring even after prolonged use, But tube life might be an issue. Any input would be appreciated. I listed the voltages for the 6V6 on the schematic. SE Amp W/Edcor Thanks!! Trout |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Hi,
I found this behavior too when designing my "Roctal" 6V6 SE amp. Try cutting the voltage on G2. I used 15K/2W, then bypassed with a 10uF cap. Cheers! |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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Quote:
I can try that pretty easy. What do you think about raising the Cathode resistor a bit more? I had started at 470R and felt it was way to hot. The 680 seemes better. Is there actually a limit how high I can go? Trout |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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Quote:
Very interesting design there! I noticed your much lower voltages also. 300V anode 290V screen I am about 100V over that in this amp. which is where my bias voltage caught my attention. With the 6L6GC installed my voltages are lower, but the sound is outstanding. I hope I can find a compromise. I hate to swap out the bypass cap, Silly me I used a single cap and just alternate the resistor Via the switch like on the schematic I posted above. The 25UF is great on the 6L6GC. |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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Quote:
Yeah, they are two different animals. I've run 6V6 as high as 370V in PP for a true "18W" output amp. On the bench test, she lost darn near 10% emission in a few days when run at 380V or more at 12W plate dissipation (RCA, Sylvania and Reflektor tested). You could SPDT a switch in there to: 1) Change cathode resistor + cap 2) Change B+ Another thought for you.... I found if a 6V6's supply is too tight, it won't "sag" well at high drive levels and fuzzes up, as well as too tight a screen. Whereas.... a 6L6 can sag anything but SS diodes and regulator ![]() Cheers! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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I was looking at The Champ 12 schematic and they show 480V on the anode. But I suspect not all the listed voltages are correct.
The screen is set at 242V?? Looking at the Power supply I do not see how they could possibly be that low , 27V on the cathode is about where I would have expected. http://www.ampwares.com/ffg/schem/champ_12_schem.gif I guess it will be tough to find a happy spot between the 2. Trout |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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V3 in a Champ 12 is an EL34 though, isn't it?
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Midwest Madman
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Quote:
Output:10-12 Watts Preamp: 2 x 7025 Power: 6L6GC Bias: Cathode bias Rectifier: Solid State My Bad, I thought it was 6V6 because I had one here to swap a speaker out and the guy had a JJ6V6S in it. I never thought to check the tube chart. http://www.ampwares.com/ffg/champ_12.html Trout |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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6L6 - right!
Last few Champs I saw had EL34's in them - a common mod. *makes note to snoop at the local L&M for stock amp notes* |
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