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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Hi all,
I'm new to the site and the hobby and I could use a little help. I've tinkered around with tube type Ham and Shortwave gear off and on for a couple of years, but this is my first attempt at audiophile gear. I just purchased my first little amp. I got it off eBay for $25 shipped. it even came with the original speakers. All I know for sure is that it is a Magnavox phono amp using 2 50EH5's and a 12AX7. Aside from the numbers printed on the chassis that you can see in thee pics, the following is stamped on top 636275- 4. It came with a block diagram but no schematic. On the diagrams lower right corner is: EL 1484-1. I have searched the internet using all these numbers and found nothing. Does anybody have or know where I can get a schematic for this. It works but of course needs to be recapped (has nasty hum) and I'm trying to avoid having to figure out all the components and hand writing a schematic myself if possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rob
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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most!!! ;-) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Rob,
Welcome to DiyAudio! You can also look for those phonograph schematics, they should be close. One of the RCA tube manuals should also have a circuit that is close to yours. Lose the ceramic caps straight off. It will sound better with a different type in there. All coupling caps need to be replaced as well. -Chris
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"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Something else needs to be mentioned immediately, and that is the lack of a power transformer to provide isolation from the power line. Before you even think about plugging this thing in get yourself an inexpensive isolation transformer on eBay. A 100Va rating should be just sufficient. Do anything else and you may end up electrocuting yourself or someone close to you. We want to keep you around and healthy, that's how our hobby grows!
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www.kta-hifi.net |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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YES!!!!!! the popular HOT CHASSIS design has one side of the line cord tied directly to the chassis, usually with a non-polarized plug
. if you use grounded test equipment or connect the device to a preamp, etc... that has a grounded chassis, you will pop a breaker. if you touch the chassis you can get KILLED!!!!!
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Vintage Audio and Pro-Audio repair ampz(removethis)@sohonet.net spammer trap: http://www1284177414881.v-dc.net/ |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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I knew that but completely missed it. I've repaired so many that these days I sometimes forget about new safety awareness.
Hi Rob, Use an isolation transformer to make it safe. They are cheap on Eeekbay -Chris
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Thanks for all the info and advice.
I will update you on the progress of the rebuild.
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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most!!! ;-) |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
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OH, I forgot to ask, should i go with metal film resistors or are carbon comps sufficient?
and what caps do you guys think are best? Thanks again, Rob
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Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most!!! ;-) |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Georgetown, On
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Hi Rob,
Carbon composition types are only good in RF work. This includes grid stoppers. I like to use metal oxide types in most places and metal films in the input signal path, and feedback network. Both are easily available from the bigger supply houses. -Chris
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"Just because you can, doesn't mean you should" © my Wife |
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