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Old 13th September 2007, 12:12 AM   #41
kuroguy is offline kuroguy  United States
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Those hole saws should go right through the diamond plate. It'll chatter a bunch until it hits solid aluminum, so wear ear plugs. It would also be advisable to clamp the plate in place while drilling as the saw could bind and if it starts to spin it could amputate the hand you use to hold your soldering iron.
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Old 13th September 2007, 12:37 AM   #42
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As pointed out, I used chassis punches to make the large holes in the diamond plate. I used a real Greenlee for the octal socket holes and the cheap Harbor Freight punches to make the smaller holes. I even used the small punch to make the double holes for the motor run cap. You didn't say how thick your material is. I used .062". The punches may complain if your material is .100".

The octal sockets are about .050 inch above the raised diamonds and the 9 pin is below the deck. This allows a small amount of airflow. My amp is too small, and it gets hot underneath. I have added small feet to allow for airflow and covered the bottom with a heavy wire mesh to keep fingers out. This keeps it cool enough.
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Old 21st September 2007, 10:45 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally posted by lousymusician



My chassis is roughly 1/8" thick aluminum. 1" and 1-1/2" bimetallic hole saws and a drill press made quick work of the tube holes. As Chrish noted, I made oversized holes to assure that there would be a little air flow for cooling. A step drill is nice for the smaller holes, they don't 'grab' the way twist drills can when they punch through the metal.

I used 3/4" standoffs that set the tube sockets a bit below the deck level. I didn't want the white sockets to show below the tubes. All components except the sockets are bottom-mounted, so clearance is not an issue.

Bill
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Bill, can you please contact me at jan AT linearaudio DOT nl re: Burning Amp Festival,

Thanks, Jan Didden

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