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Old 5th September 2007, 02:21 AM   #21
chrish is offline chrish  Australia
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I got most of the stuff to populate the board from Digikey. I got the power transformer, choke, coupling capacitors, tubes and Hammond chassis from Antique Electronics http://www.tubesandmore.com/ and the output transformers from Edcor http://www.edcorusa.com/products/tra...se15-8-5k.html

The chassis I used was a standard Hammond 10"*12"*2" aluminum with the 10"*12" aluminum base plate. Worked well. Used a set of cheap chassis punches from Harbour Freight to punch the holes for the tubes. If you do happen to have a chassis that is only 2" deep, the tall thin 1500uF Panasonic caps will only just fit with an under the chassis build. You would probably be better mounting the caps horizontal rather than vertical.

Others may have some good tube recommendations as well, but I am very happy with the JJ ECC81 (12AT7) and E34Ls.
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Old 5th September 2007, 02:28 AM   #22
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Quote:
I could not find it on AES but found this:
The Tubedepot sockets will work. The AES part number is P-ST8-193G (gold) or P-ST8-193 (tin). I believe that they all come from the same Chinese source. I have used both of the AES parts, and now get them from another source.

Quote:
I still don't have a decent photo of it, but here it is:
Looks good to me. Let me know if you want me to add it to the "users amps" page on my web site. I found some stainless steel baking pans at Sams Club, but haven't built anything with them yet. Stainless is harder to deal with than aluminum.

Quote:
Does anyone know of a 1-stop shopping website for these parts? I still have to order the power trans, output trans, volume pot, etc. (All the stuff not on the PCB.)
If there is, I haven't found it yet. I usually get all of the parts that go on the board from DigiKey or Mouser. There are so many possible choices for all of the other parts that it would be impossible for one firm to stock them all.

I use Allied power transformers in most of my projects. They are Hammonds for less than Hammond prices. My OPT choices are often dictated by what the customer wants (if I am building an amp for someone else), or whatever deal that I can get (for my own amps).

I use Lowes and Home Depot for hardware. I have searched out new and unique chassis, often beginning with an Ebay purchase. The motor run caps are also from Ebay. Again Transcendar OPT's beat the usual cost/performance curve, from Ebay. Search for seller ggaet.
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Old 5th September 2007, 11:31 AM   #23
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Thanks guys for all the info. I'm getting there. I'm gonna order up the rest of the stuff today. I used Mouser, Digikey, and Tubedepot.

What is a 'Motor run cap?' Is that the large cap used to get rid of the ripple in the power supply?

Hey George, Is that a picture of you with the electric guitar?
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Old 5th September 2007, 12:48 PM   #24
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A motor RUN cap is a capacitor designed for shifting the phase in one winding of an AC motor. They are designed for continuous duty operation at high temperatures and high ripple currents. These characteristics make them useful for filter caps in power supplies. Since they are not associated with high end audio, they are reasonably priced. These are usually rated for AC voltage. They can be used on a higher DC voltage, although there is disagreement as to how much extra voltage they can handle. Conventional wisdom says 1.41 times as much. I use 370 volt AC caps in my tube amps at voltages up to 520 volts without issue. These are usually polypropelyne film caps housed in an aluminum can. See the picture of lousymusicians amp. The motor run cap is the large can behind the power transformer. Look for something in the 50 to 100uF range at least 370 VAC.

Avoid motor START caps. These are made for short term intermittent duty during the start up of an AC motor. They are usually a non polarized electrolytic often in a plastic case.

There is a vendor on Ebay that sells these capacitors. Ebay is not available here at work, so I can't look it up right now. Their name was midori craft and capacitor farm. Or something like that.

Yes that would be me terrorizing my neighbors with a 200 watt SE guitar amp. When I actually could play guitar (a long time ago) our motto was "If you can't be good, be loud".

The board will go out tomorrow or Friday morning.
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Old 6th September 2007, 05:06 PM   #25
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I finally ordered everything I need. Sourced the motor run cap from ebay.

Below is the choke I ordered for the power supply. I'm going with the 5AR4 rectifier. The description of the choke mentioned it was good for power supply filtering on AES. Does this look ok?


P-T159ZC FILTER CHOKE, OPEN BRACKET, HAMMOND, 60 MH, 2 A

Thanks to everyone for helping!
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Old 6th September 2007, 06:56 PM   #26
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Oops! I have a feeling that value is too low. Consulted my ARRL handbook from 1988 and found this formula:

Lcrit (Henrys) = E (volts)/ I (mA)
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Old 6th September 2007, 07:40 PM   #27
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You want a choke that has at least 1 or 2 HENRIES of inductance. More is better in this application. I usually use 6 or 8 Hy. The current rating should be at least 175 mA. For cheap but UGLY I use these:

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...DF43005757617F

For a nicer looking choke, use the Hammond 193L.
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Old 6th September 2007, 08:15 PM   #28
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Thanks George. I ordered the ugly one.
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Old 8th September 2007, 08:47 AM   #29
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George, Chris, or Lousymusician,

I have most of my parts scattered across the US right now and hopefully they will all converge at my residence. (Opposite of "blowing" an amp up so that is a good thing.) While I am waiting I was going to start on building the chassis. I am going to make it out of wood and have a steel or aluminum deck. Can any of you suggest the dimensions that would be best to fit all the components?

Thanks,

Andy
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Old 8th September 2007, 01:52 PM   #30
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The pan I used is 11" x 15" x 3-1/4" tall. It's plenty roomy. The ugly Triad choke fits underneath, so it's out of sight.

I used George's method of making paper cutouts of the major components and shuffling them around to determine my layout.

Bill
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