Recently I found a large bunch of octal (6SN7/6SL7 probably) bare glass tube bulbs with long wires without base sockets, new old stock, in a box (!). The tubes/bulbs seems to be experimental or manufactured for testing purposes or just excess quantities of some dumb Russian plant... However, my idea is to glue the bulbs to some octal bases from wasted tubes and to put them in use.
I would like to glue the bulbs with a kind of glue which look and feel like the original thick brownish glue compound from that days. I don't want to use instant glue or other 'modern' looking solution. Moreover the instant glue is not user friendly and any small mistake will ruin the overall tube look.
Does anybody have any idea what glue to use which can be found on the market and looks similar to the original one? It should be temperature resistant I suppose, but it is not mandatory in this case.
Thank you very much in advance!
I would like to glue the bulbs with a kind of glue which look and feel like the original thick brownish glue compound from that days. I don't want to use instant glue or other 'modern' looking solution. Moreover the instant glue is not user friendly and any small mistake will ruin the overall tube look.
Does anybody have any idea what glue to use which can be found on the market and looks similar to the original one? It should be temperature resistant I suppose, but it is not mandatory in this case.
Thank you very much in advance!
Original manufacturer's base and cap cement is a proprietary non-expanding mixture affectionately called "glit". (glue + sh*t) 
I have successfully been using Weldwood Plastic Resin by DAP. This is a pre-catalyzed urea formaldehyde wood working glue in powdered form. It's available locally here is the U.S. and on line. (google it) Normally mixed with water it has a pot time of several hours before setting up, and a 24 hour full cure time. But this can be shortened.
To use it for tubes, start with a small amount of powder and slowly mix in denatured alcohol (to speed curing time) until you have a medium thick tan paste. Thoroughly clean the surfaces, apply the paste and position the base or cap. Rubber bands are helpfull to hold them in place. To further speed thing up, I use a small heat gun or hairdryer to drive out the alcohol. But I think a slow cure makes for a better bond, although I've never tested that.
It's important to not move things once they begin to set up. Leave them rest overnight to fully cure. Hope this helps .
Victor
I have successfully been using Weldwood Plastic Resin by DAP. This is a pre-catalyzed urea formaldehyde wood working glue in powdered form. It's available locally here is the U.S. and on line. (google it) Normally mixed with water it has a pot time of several hours before setting up, and a 24 hour full cure time. But this can be shortened.
To use it for tubes, start with a small amount of powder and slowly mix in denatured alcohol (to speed curing time) until you have a medium thick tan paste. Thoroughly clean the surfaces, apply the paste and position the base or cap. Rubber bands are helpfull to hold them in place. To further speed thing up, I use a small heat gun or hairdryer to drive out the alcohol. But I think a slow cure makes for a better bond, although I've never tested that.
It's important to not move things once they begin to set up. Leave them rest overnight to fully cure. Hope this helps .
Victor
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