1st tube project, tubalizer?

luke691 · 2nd July 2007, 03:38 AM

Recently i decided to make an iPod amp and became interested in tubes. I am planning to power the preamp & amp off a single 12v sla battery, if I used a tubalizer, would i be able to power both the tubalizer and power amp form the same battery.
Also, if anyone has any suggestions regarding amps it would really help(i wouldnt mind making a tube power amp but a bit hard with only 12v), i am using 2*10watt rms 8ohm speakers.

thanks

astouffer · 2nd July 2007, 03:44 AM

12v seems too low for a 6SL7. You could look into using tubes meant for a low plate supply like a 12AE6.

gingertube · 2nd July 2007, 07:28 AM

See this thread
6SL7 or 6SL7GT for broken Tubalizer

A search will turn up a couple of other threads on this dubious device.

Basically its a dud. Tell us what you are trying to do, that is, are you just looking for something to go between your ipod and a Solid Stae Amp to give it a bit of tube warmth? or what?

Then we can give you some advise on alternatives.

Cheers,
Ian

luke691 · 2nd July 2007, 08:17 AM

i could use 2 lm1875 chips for the power section. how much power would they put out with 12v and an 8 ohm load?

Sonusthree · 2nd July 2007, 09:09 AM

Hi Luke.
I drew the schematic (I am S3) that you posted and I've recently found an error in it. I can't remember exactly what it was but I can check it later. PM me if you're in a hurry!

I only noticed when I removed all the electrolytics to upgrade it to 24V operation. Sorry for any confusion. It was my first tube 'project' also.

I wouldn't like to discourage anyone from making one. I had major problems with mine but I have heard of some people enjoying them. I'd definitely keep mine (running on 24V) for musical instrument use. It's more of an effects unit than a piece of Hi-Fi kit IMHO. I increased the voltage from 12 - 24V and that prevented the clipping I was experiencing but the sound was just very vague. My system is ruthlessly accurate (bright, detailed and fast transient response) in the mids and treble and the tubalizer just smeared everything. But .... I did get that valve 'psychoacoustic' effect that melts your heart. The trade off just wasn't worth it with the tubalizer.

Also notice that most of the negativity about the tubalizer is from me! and that others are usually saying that it shouldn't work on 12v and that it is very expensive to buy (considering the parts cost to DIY).

Alastair E's low voltage design is too easy to ignore and great fun. I have made a few but have never tried it with the valve that he recommends. It's in the same thread as the tubalizer stuff.

The 24V Aikido gets very good press and is definitely next on my 'hitlist'. Quite importantly for some (and me) boards are available to buy. I haven't heard it myself though.

Cheers,
Martin

ssmith · 2nd July 2007, 09:45 AM

I wouldn't bother with a tubalizer. In my case it took away detail and dynamics and added mushiness, and quite a few euros.

luke691 · 2nd July 2007, 03:05 PM

Basically its a dud. Tell us what you are trying to do, that is, are you just looking for something to go between your ipod and a Solid Stae Amp to give it a bit of tube warmth?

basically that, a pre-amp or similar to "give it a bit of tube warmth"

i found this recently regarding tubalizer--

6SL7 or 6SL7GT for broken Tubalizer

go down to post #29

Sonusthree · 2nd July 2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by luke691
go down to post #29

That is Alastairs E's circuit that I mentioned earlier. Post 29 is the first version. Post 47 is the latest. Be sure to read all of his posts since he gives some good ideas for getting more headroom from a 12 Volt supply

regards,
Martin

Alastair E · 2nd July 2007, 08:06 PM

I have tried the design I outlined in those threads, with the 9V batt, but instead of in the 'earthy/cathode circuits, I put it in series with the anode circuits. I have some small glass wire-ended (6C3B-V) valves that do need that little extra before they perform, although some examples work well at just 12V

The ECC88 or 6DJ8 works very well, but of all the valves Ive tried, I like the 7586 Nuvistor in this amp at 12V. The Russian 6C51H-B versions I have sound just great and are not microphonic (Yet!)--Got them cheap on fleabay....

Basically although you are still using a 12V supply, the additional batt in series with the 12V supply raises the 12v to 20 odd volts, for the anode circuit to great effect More headroom and a little more 'dynamic' The 9V batt should last well, as only a couple of mA drain for a two-channel 'stereo' pre-amp (The Heaters are supplied directly from the 12V 'main' supply) My current bread-board (Single-channel) has been powered continuously for around a week or so now, and the 9v batt still reads 8.5V....

The 12V is supplied by a golf-cart SLA on 'mantainence' or float charge

luke691 · 2nd July 2007, 11:45 PM

thanks for all the help i checked out ebay and found this---

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=160132788718

is that what im looking for? (dont want to spend 20 dollars on dud)

Also, i was wondering if there would be a specific way to power/wire all of the amps from the one battery --

2x tubalizers(alistairs design(with 9v battery)
1x ipod(into a 7805 regulator
2x amps still undecided on amps (please suggest one(10wrms 8ohm load)

2nd July 2007, 07:28 AM	#3
gingertube diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Adelaide South Oz	Tubalizer is a dud See this thread 6SL7 or 6SL7GT for broken Tubalizer A search will turn up a couple of other threads on this dubious device. Basically its a dud. Tell us what you are trying to do, that is, are you just looking for something to go between your ipod and a Solid Stae Amp to give it a bit of tube warmth? or what? Then we can give you some advise on alternatives. Cheers, Ian

2nd July 2007, 08:06 PM	#9
Alastair E diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: South Wales	I have tried the design I outlined in those threads, with the 9V batt, but instead of in the 'earthy/cathode circuits, I put it in series with the anode circuits. I have some small glass wire-ended (6C3B-V) valves that do need that little extra before they perform, although some examples work well at just 12V The ECC88 or 6DJ8 works very well, but of all the valves Ive tried, I like the 7586 Nuvistor in this amp at 12V. The Russian 6C51H-B versions I have sound just great and are not microphonic (Yet!)--Got them cheap on fleabay.... Basically although you are still using a 12V supply, the additional batt in series with the 12V supply raises the 12v to 20 odd volts, for the anode circuit to great effect More headroom and a little more 'dynamic' The 9V batt should last well, as only a couple of mA drain for a two-channel 'stereo' pre-amp (The Heaters are supplied directly from the 12V 'main' supply) My current bread-board (Single-channel) has been powered continuously for around a week or so now, and the 9v batt still reads 8.5V.... The 12V is supplied by a golf-cart SLA on 'mantainence' or float charge __________________ Das Beste Oder Nichts

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2nd July 2007, 03:44 AM	#2
astouffer diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Pittsburgh, crumbling wasteland	12v seems too low for a 6SL7. You could look into using tubes meant for a low plate supply like a 12AE6.

2nd July 2007, 08:17 AM	#4
luke691 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	i could use 2 lm1875 chips for the power section. how much power would they put out with 12v and an 8 ohm load?

2nd July 2007, 09:09 AM	#5
Sonusthree diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Brighton,UK	Hi Luke. I drew the schematic (I am S3) that you posted and I've recently found an error in it. I can't remember exactly what it was but I can check it later. PM me if you're in a hurry! I only noticed when I removed all the electrolytics to upgrade it to 24V operation. Sorry for any confusion. It was my first tube 'project' also. I wouldn't like to discourage anyone from making one. I had major problems with mine but I have heard of some people enjoying them. I'd definitely keep mine (running on 24V) for musical instrument use. It's more of an effects unit than a piece of Hi-Fi kit IMHO. I increased the voltage from 12 - 24V and that prevented the clipping I was experiencing but the sound was just very vague. My system is ruthlessly accurate (bright, detailed and fast transient response) in the mids and treble and the tubalizer just smeared everything. But .... I did get that valve 'psychoacoustic' effect that melts your heart. The trade off just wasn't worth it with the tubalizer. Also notice that most of the negativity about the tubalizer is from me! and that others are usually saying that it shouldn't work on 12v and that it is very expensive to buy (considering the parts cost to DIY). Alastair E's low voltage design is too easy to ignore and great fun. I have made a few but have never tried it with the valve that he recommends. It's in the same thread as the tubalizer stuff. The 24V Aikido gets very good press and is definitely next on my 'hitlist'. Quite importantly for some (and me) boards are available to buy. I haven't heard it myself though. Cheers, Martin

2nd July 2007, 09:45 AM	#6
ssmith diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Paris	I wouldn't bother with a tubalizer. In my case it took away detail and dynamics and added mushiness, and quite a few euros.

2nd July 2007, 03:05 PM	#7
luke691 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	Basically its a dud. Tell us what you are trying to do, that is, are you just looking for something to go between your ipod and a Solid Stae Amp to give it a bit of tube warmth? basically that, a pre-amp or similar to "give it a bit of tube warmth" i found this recently regarding tubalizer-- 6SL7 or 6SL7GT for broken Tubalizer go down to post #29

2nd July 2007, 11:45 PM	#10
luke691 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2007	thanks for all the help i checked out ebay and found this--- http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=160132788718 is that what im looking for? (dont want to spend 20 dollars on dud) Also, i was wondering if there would be a specific way to power/wire all of the amps from the one battery -- 2x tubalizers(alistairs design(with 9v battery) 1x ipod(into a 7805 regulator 2x amps still undecided on amps (please suggest one(10wrms 8ohm load)

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