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Old 19th June 2007, 04:59 PM   #11
SY is offline SY  United States
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Quote:
I'm not sure why Jones said this, though there may be some context to it that we're missing. If it has to do with induction, there are usually procedures and installation methods that avoid or minimize it.
That's exactly it, and in "Building Valve Amplifiers," MJ outlines some of those methods and shows a nice example built into a Leak chassis.
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Old 19th June 2007, 05:32 PM   #12
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I build a frame out of 1" angle iron, hardwood on the sides, copper on the top, open bottom. I love it because if you screw up a hole in the back piece of wood it is no big deal. Copper is cheap 12"x12"x1/16" costs me $38
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Old 19th June 2007, 06:39 PM   #13
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I send my punched steel plate in to a local shop for nickel plating. Mirror finish, easy to clean, and good resistance to rust.

Expensive at $125 a plate. I have considered buying an electrolytic plating kit for a few hundred, but that would be for some larger project, like monoblocks with separate power supplies.

I have easy (and free) access to as much copper as I want, busbar, foil, etc. I agree with Kevin, it's just too darn difficult to work with: gauling, softness, clogging tools. Also quite heavy for a given strength in comparision to Al or steel. Looks beautiful, tho. I love Gary Dahl's Aurora- I think that's copper.
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Old 19th June 2007, 07:00 PM   #14
Jennice is offline Jennice  Denmark
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Why would steel be a problem due to magnetism?
Magnetism cause currents, but a good builder would endure one (1) grounding point anyway. This leaves the currents with little effect, I would think.

Personally, I use both iron (soft metal, not steel), and Aluminum.
AL for brackets and items with much machining, iron for sheets and items that need a higher strength/thickness ratio.

Yes, theoretically, this mix causes corrosion. In my indoor climate, this hasn't shown to be an issue yet with my 9 year old design.

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Old 19th June 2007, 08:33 PM   #15
nhuwar is offline nhuwar  United States
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Just to let you know dissimilar metals causes galvanic corrosion it doesn't matter if it's inside or not. But just for clarification aluminium is just slightly more active then mild steel so galvanic corrosion realy wouldn't be a problem.

For it to be a problem you would have to put a highly active metal lets say iron in contect with a very noble metal say silver and you would see a horrific lose of material in a matter of just a few days.

The only thing is aluminium in open air will actually corrode quite quickly but you really dont see it all you see is this white powder that appears there and you dontt know where it came from. This white powder is aluminium oxide.

The reason I say magnetized steel is bad for one reason when you are machining it it's really hard to get the filings off of it after your done" you can just bang it on something" and the magnetic feild will effect chokes if the feilds are parallel.

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Old 19th June 2007, 09:34 PM   #16
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Default Flux leak

Yes , MJ indicates that flux leak under the transformers is the problem. He goes on to state that this can be largely dealt with by placing washers (or similar) between the transformer and the chassis but I presume that there has to be at least on point of electrical contact between the transformer chassis and the amp chassis in order to earth the transformer chassis?
I appreciate the response so far - It seems to me so far are that the advantages of steel are strength and signal isolation (between transformers and inside) but the disadvantages are induced currents, possible magnetism, and it is difficult to work with compared with aluminium.
Overall my problems with construction are minimal as I am geting a workshop to do it. Also I am looking at nickel plating so I am leaning towards steel. It is reassuring to hear that both materials have been used here with success.
Thanks for the response.
Rob
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Old 19th June 2007, 09:38 PM   #17
nhuwar is offline nhuwar  United States
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HeHeHe as long as you keep the steel above it's curie temp it cannot magnetize "450 degrees F"



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Old 19th June 2007, 10:29 PM   #18
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I was lucky enough to grab a 2x3 foot piece of .050" thick titanium sheet from being scrapped. It will most likely have to be machined professionally but when polished will make one heck of an amp chassis
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Old 20th June 2007, 12:25 PM   #19
nhuwar is offline nhuwar  United States
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Depending on what type of titanium it is you could have a heck of a time machining it. How thick is it most people dont realize titanium is flimsy so if it's to thin is will sag under weight of you transformers. You should invest in some good titanium boronitride coated drill bots if you wante to put wholes in it.

Good luck

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Old 20th June 2007, 02:13 PM   #20
5u4 is offline 5u4  United States
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One other point that I don't think was mentioned yet. A steel chassis as in Hammond anyway, can or will physically couple the mechanical buzzing from the power transformer & make it noticably more audible than aluminum.
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