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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: somewhere in Australia
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please have a look at the block diagram of the connection: http://img515.imageshack.us/my.php?i...titled1ka9.png
Is this the correct way of using a 6.3VDC (voltage regulator) supply on a tube heater with center tap? Would the connection be the same if the voltage source is current regulator using an LM317? something like this: http://www.tubecad.com/july2000/img21.gif Thank you very much
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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Quote:
-If you opt for current sourcing, know that its going to take 40 seconds to see the heaters glow well. If you do it in some preamp be sure to wait as much before you turn on your power amp to avoid a thump. CS is good on not shocking the heater and beneficial for the long life of those NOS. It does sound softer, less hazy, and more bouncy too. I don't know about cathode stripping though, prolonged exposure of non emitting cathodes to high voltage plates does occur (but inverse progressively so), since the heater comes up so slowly with CS, that even a tube rectifier is well up and running by then. My tubes are still healthy but its only about 4yrs I use CS in my non power level circuits so to know better. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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Current regulation of the heater supply is OK, provided that there is only one tube heater or, if there are several tube heaters, they are in series.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: montreal
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If I have only 6.3V transformer, it is possible to drive 12A_7 heater???? They need 12.6 V...
Can I but the negative point of the 6.3v on the center tap of the heaters, and the positive ont the two heater?? And the sound will be the same of less good?? Thank you !!! |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Norway
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Quote:
Jan.
__________________
Life is hard - Then you die. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
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Quote:
Okay, but now consider the fact that the heater resistance goes down as it heats up. Higher temperature means lower resistance. Higher power means higher temperature, so higher power means lower resistance. Let's try to use that fact to our advantage. Let's look for ways to heat them that have the one with higher nominal resistance using more power than the one with lower nominal resistance. That will push their operating resistances closer together. That circuit (should it exist) is self-balancing to some degree. First of all, I don't see any difference between regulating the voltage or current. Fixing one makes the other variable, but they always settle at something equal to or near the nominal value. So that leaves the question of series vs. parallel. With parallel wiring they both have the same voltage across them. P=V^2/R, so the one with greater resistance will use less power. That's the opposite of what we want. That doesn't balance the heaters, that increases any imbalance. ![]() With a series connection the current through both heaters will be the same. P=I^2*R, so the one with greater resistance uses more power. That is what we want. ![]() Of course, all of this is probably just academic; the real-world difference in heaters (and the consequences) might be small compared to the practicalities of building an amp. -- Dave
__________________
January 20, 2009: Bush's last day |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Chief Moderator
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If you current source with the LM317 in the end, maybe the 1.25/Ih type for the Ih setting resistor must be modified to 1.22/Ih so to contain resistor's value trip up when at work and hot. Keep that in mind if with the 1.25/Ih formula your measured voltage on the heaters ends up lower than expected. Depends on various stuff, but keep this in mind just in case.
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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How do you wire 12.6 volt heaters with 6.3 volts AC?
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2007
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Quote:
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