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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: India
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hi fdegrove, joel, 7N7
how safe or stupid is to replace a ECC82 with ECC81 or ECC83 ? sorry..its got nothing to do with this thread but this was something that was agitating me for a while, and when I saw you gurus in one thread... ![]() thnks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
While all 3 types are pin to pin compatible,and there are more,swapping one for the other is not a good idea. The tubes will probably not get damaged by it and will likely work too,but how? Not a good idea. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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Quote:
I know that the guitarists do this, but it should not be done. ECC82/12AU7 is designed to run a reasonable amount of current as is ECC81/12AT7; ECC83/12AX7 is not. The one possible swap you might get away with is to replace a 12AX7 with a 12AY7 for reduced gain. These valves are designed to run at similar currents i.e. <4mA, so you will probably get away with it. 12AY7 is a good valve. As I have implied elsewhere it is a good idea to replace ECC82 with almost anything (!) but the '81 (which is not a good valve either) is not an option. If you want more gain, which I suspect is your reason for asking, there are no plug and play solutions realistically. Most of the higher gain alternatives have different pin-outs; many are quite expensive too. Additionally, they have different characteristics which will require an element of re-design. If I had something with an ECC82 in it and I needed more gain, I would be looking for something that had some driving ability, so for a modest increase I might try 6463 (but I would need more current) or for much more gain I would consider E88CC,. If there were only modest drive requirements, other types I would consider would be 6BQ7, 6BK7, 6BZ8, or even 5965/E180CC which has mu of 47, although this is still less than ECC81. 7N7
__________________
Plug them in and light them up |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: India
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Hi fdegrove, 7N7. Thanks for the info.
I have an salvaged an old EL84 SE amp. It originally extracted from a Phillips Stereo radio called "Maestro" and assembled in a new chassis in the early 70's by my uncle. I don't think you would know about this radio model - it was made by Phillips in India around mid-60's. The amp, as it reached me, has ECC82 in the driver stage. It perhaps could have had any other tube just as well. I want to replace the ECC82 with eaither ECC81 or ECC83, simply because these are tubes I have with me at the momemt. Any mods that you might suggest? Sorry for diverting the topic of this thread, but thanks so much for the help. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Why do you want to do this? Is the ECC82 dead? Either way it requires a lot of work to modify for another valve and since I can't find a circuit diagram for it, it's a bit like working blindfolded. Maybe you can trade some of the ECCs you have for a couple of ECC82s? Cheers,
__________________
Frank |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Actually I forgot you were the person with the 13D3/6158 valves. From what I see from your tubelist that one is the closest to the ECC82. It is NOT the same valve however so it may not work satisfactorily in that amp. Cheers,
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Frank |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: India
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Hi fdegrove..
indeed I'm the guy with those 6158's .. In between postings, I was doing some search and came across EL84 Single-Ended - Bonavolta. It looks very similar to the thing I have at hand. Atleast, the caps are ..can this circuit work ok with a ECC81 or ECC83. I am willing to change the radio amp circuit to the Bonavolta circuit. thanks...and btw ECC82 is not available where I live. Thanks for the help. |
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#8 | ||
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
Quote:
You'll need to some measurements,I assume the EL84 and ECC82 shared the same B+. Probably around 270 VDC. Quote:
Cheers,
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Frank |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: England
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This is quite a problem.
270V is not much to run a driver stage with resistive loads. Of course I have no idea what you have available to you where you are so it is not easy to make a r4ecommendation. I really do not think that the ECCs that you have are suitable As for 6158/13D3, this is an excellent valve, but sadly again not really suitable. I am running one a s a diff pair in my experimental 13D3/D3A/6CK4 amplifier. 13D3 is low distortion but sadly has quite a high anode resistance. The other problem is the HT you have available. You could run it with a low value of anode load and take a chance. As I have only 300V available, I have opted for active loads; these use MJE350 PNP power transistors. The only other components are a 6.2V Zener, a few resistors and a capacitor. This arrangement gives me an anode load of about 800k which is very good for distortionm and I get to operate at the anode voltage I want (185V) Even if you do not want the active loads, in your position I would go for the 13D3 and see how you get on. I would rather use this one than either of the other two types you mentioned. Best of luck 7N7
__________________
Plug them in and light them up |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Belgium
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Hi,
That 270 VDC B+ was just my wild guess really since this a common anode voltage for the the output valve. Let's wait and see,
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Frank |
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