I found, like Buzz, that active regulation is the next level. Not required for really good sound however. When it comes to the heaters, I found that simple AC is best.
Furthermore, another tweek that I am on the fence with is using a ccs as the anode load vs. a resistor. I am currently using a CCS and have been for many months. Others swear by the simple resistor.
Stiff power supply, I am not sure, however, I used the parts I had which turned into a massive looking thing. IMHO, I don't think they hurt but not required provided channel seperation can be maintained.
These are just my opinions. As usual measurements don't show significant difference.
Furthermore, another tweek that I am on the fence with is using a ccs as the anode load vs. a resistor. I am currently using a CCS and have been for many months. Others swear by the simple resistor.
Stiff power supply, I am not sure, however, I used the parts I had which turned into a massive looking thing. IMHO, I don't think they hurt but not required provided channel seperation can be maintained.
These are just my opinions. As usual measurements don't show significant difference.
At the risk of being stoned, the only thing I have not liked is the tube rectifier. As I said earlier, I haev not touched it since finishing it, but when i added the Winged C 5u4g, i got something i dont quite like. NOt as clean as the SS. I would argue it added something negative vs something positive. Probelm is, I threwit together, so it could be layout related. I also changed from CRC to CLC. Too many variables. I got a big matching thing to go through and all will be redone. I am going to layout the entire internals on a pcb for neatness, i know heresy, and then set the psu up in such a way that I can switch from SS to tube rectification. I like Bas' idea of tube after SS for slow ramp of B+. Will try it all. Main point....its worth it. Makes me want to try other big tube pre's. Got some of the Russian tubes Wavebourn recommended earlier in the thread as well.
PS I love tubes as Pre's with SS as power amps, FWIW.
PS I love tubes as Pre's with SS as power amps, FWIW.
I'll probably be stoned by the objectivists who maintain that different brands of rectifiers won't alter the sound. But the Russian 5U4G's aren't exactly the pinnacle of rectification. I found them in my amps to make the amps sound bright. Hence I've never used that rectifier ever again except for startup tests. 
Its russian cousin 5AR4 is better already. The NOS 5R4 potato mashers is what I use most, since they can be bought for reasonable prices. Though I realize there must be better. They are perhaps not the best when it comes to bass and dynamics.
Though it would be cool to have a real Mullard GZ34/7. That is simply for people with a lot of money and no diy skills. The so called damper diodes are probably even better. I say probably because I have never compared them side by side.
Its russian cousin 5AR4 is better already. The NOS 5R4 potato mashers is what I use most, since they can be bought for reasonable prices. Though I realize there must be better. They are perhaps not the best when it comes to bass and dynamics.
Though it would be cool to have a real Mullard GZ34/7. That is simply for people with a lot of money and no diy skills. The so called damper diodes are probably even better. I say probably because I have never compared them side by side.
Last edited:
Proponents of solid state rectification use this to tame the recovery spike of the rectifiers. This recovery spike excites the secondaries of the transformer. And couples into all other windings.
The RRSF is said to ameliorate solid state rectification. The advantages of ss (cheap/works for ever/no separate heater) remain ofcourse. And the disadvantage is removed (noise).
Since I'll have none of the switching noise because of the damper tube. I'll still have to solve the reverse recovery spike. So I'll implement it as well. But I was lazy last night. I'll probably get to it after a couple of listening sessions.
JC Morrison even uses big *** chokes in his Silbatone amps!!!
The RRSF is said to ameliorate solid state rectification. The advantages of ss (cheap/works for ever/no separate heater) remain ofcourse. And the disadvantage is removed (noise).
Since I'll have none of the switching noise because of the damper tube. I'll still have to solve the reverse recovery spike. So I'll implement it as well. But I was lazy last night. I'll probably get to it after a couple of listening sessions.
JC Morrison even uses big *** chokes in his Silbatone amps!!!
Last edited:
Thats what i said
. THanks for the info. When i get back to it, I may ask for more assistance. Looking forward to your impressions.
6V6 up and playing without SSHV.
To make a long story short. I'm rebuilding this thing. With the utmost care. It is awesome. Hard to imagine anything bettering it. Mind you I've never tried a DHT preamp.
The Russian PIO/Teflon combi was amazing but leaky. Put some RIFA's in solved the pumping in and out of the speaker driver. But not a good as the combination. I'll be getting Jupiter or Mundor Silver/Gold in oil. It deserves it.
Can you imagine how good it will sound with the SSHV2.
You've created another winner Salas!
To make a long story short. I'm rebuilding this thing. With the utmost care. It is awesome. Hard to imagine anything bettering it. Mind you I've never tried a DHT preamp.
The Russian PIO/Teflon combi was amazing but leaky. Put some RIFA's in solved the pumping in and out of the speaker driver. But not a good as the combination. I'll be getting Jupiter or Mundor Silver/Gold in oil. It deserves it.
Can you imagine how good it will sound with the SSHV2.
You've created another winner Salas!
6V6 up and playing without SSHV.
To make a long story short. I'm rebuilding this thing. With the utmost care. It is awesome. Hard to imagine anything bettering it. Mind you I've never tried a DHT preamp.
The Russian PIO/Teflon combi was amazing but leaky. Put some RIFA's in solved the pumping in and out of the speaker driver. But not a good as the combination. I'll be getting Jupiter or Mundor Silver/Gold in oil. It deserves it.
Can you imagine how good it will sound with the SSHV2.
You've created another winner Salas!
Thanks for the good words. Enjoy.
comparing tube vs. sand rectifiers is sometimes as apples vs. oranges , if one is not able to ensure proper working conditions for tube rectifier
yes , most ppl are aware of importance of size of first cap after rectifier , but that value is dependable also of another important factor in tube PSU's - real impedance of high voltage windings.
tube rectifier don't like low impedance windings , as supply - they like appropriate impedance winding
old woodoo is that best interaction of supply and load (which is your adored gain stage itself ) is when their U-I characteristics are intersected at 90deg angle
I'm saying - if you want real toob rectification , make filter as LC (even repetitive) , then listen ; only in that case high voltage winding impedance is irrelevant and can be as low as you can make/buy
but - if you are willing to go to overkill route , then is completely irrelevant will you use sand or toob for rectification ; just use plenty of iron , smaller and fast caps OR myriad of uF (but please , nothing in between ) , then proper shunt reg ........
conclusion - comparing tube vs. sand rectification and making definitive conclusions which is better is .......... sign of sissyness
when made good , both are good ............
yes , most ppl are aware of importance of size of first cap after rectifier , but that value is dependable also of another important factor in tube PSU's - real impedance of high voltage windings.
tube rectifier don't like low impedance windings , as supply - they like appropriate impedance winding
old woodoo is that best interaction of supply and load (which is your adored gain stage itself ) is when their U-I characteristics are intersected at 90deg angle
I'm saying - if you want real toob rectification , make filter as LC (even repetitive) , then listen ; only in that case high voltage winding impedance is irrelevant and can be as low as you can make/buy
but - if you are willing to go to overkill route , then is completely irrelevant will you use sand or toob for rectification ; just use plenty of iron , smaller and fast caps OR myriad of uF (but please , nothing in between ) , then proper shunt reg ........
conclusion - comparing tube vs. sand rectification and making definitive conclusions which is better is .......... sign of sissyness
when made good , both are good ............
Attachments
Last edited:
I didnt intend to compare and will be the first to admit I know nothing about setting up proper psu. Where is good reading about how to find way to proper setup? How do i use tools(oscilloscope or others) to find this point. You know I am game. You also know I am foolish in the ways of audio. End of the day, even with perfect implementation, which is better is too personal and cannot be proven. We both know you could line up "experts" on both sides of the aisle.
Here is a good article which I translated and put up in my magazine.
Designing a PSU (with Duncanamps PSUD II) by DHTRob.
Part1:
http://basaudio.net/pubs/DIY_2005_5.pdf
Part2:
http://basaudio.net/pubs/DIY_2006_1.pdf
