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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Hello Johan
Here we are again My little Leak gives me a lot of pleasure - so much that listening hours are limited to only a few hours per week. I usually use my Troughline 11 tuner at the same time, switch the lights all off and watch the glow... bulgin |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Bulgin,
I use my Troughline Tuner with a Leak Stereo 30+30 s/s amplifier, equally gratifying -F_D |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2006
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Hi FD
But of course bulgin |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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Bulgin,
Quote:
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#5 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
http://wduk.worldomain.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2800 and elctronics are shipping or very near... http://www.radfordaudio.co.uk/ dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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Why not build the original, upon which all these "aftermakes" are based? The book on building Valve Amplifiers from Mullard is still available, and you could alter them as per Byrith if you so wish.
The best thing about building your own amplifiers is that you can specifiy decent ratings for the mains & audio output transformers instead of the only-just marginal products that the Manufacturers of the time seemed to prefer. Some good reading from the two articles here: http://www.lundahl.se/claus_b.html -F_D |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Near London. UK
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The key thing about the Radford amplifiers was their excellent output transformers - the HF resonance was beyond 300kHz. They saved money by putting their small components on a PCB.
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The loudspeaker: The only commercial Hi-Fi item where a disproportionate part of the budget isn't spent on the box. And the one where it would make a difference... |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Pretoria, South Africa
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Bulgin then appeared to be interested in my heresy of finding something the matter with the Leak Stereo 20 .... but starts wishing for Radford only 3 posts down. Do I rest my case?
But seriously, to my own amazement I found that the Leak Stereo 20 was lacking in design, to the extent that I had to change certain conponent values so as to get optimal performance. I say this with care, and more so as I do not find any other comments on this on several other sites where refurbishing was discussed. But the problem was quite evident on checking with signal generator and scope, on all of 6 amps that came my way for refurbishing (3 stereo units). Also the relevant components were obviously factory fitted and not the result of tweeking. Perhaps others could comment? The first matter that struck me was a rather starved operating point for the input triode: About 160V over the tube, only 60V over the load resistor R5. (All of the circuit diagrams I could find used the same sketch and component designations.) Also, checking voltage and current values given in the schematic, the anode current (through R5) is 0.6mA, but through R3 it is 0.56 and 0.65mA (with and without pre-amp connected). This was not serious but did set one wondering. I ended up with R3 = 1K5 and about 120V on the anode, giving some increase in 1st triode gain. (I was not looking for that, but it did seem to indicate that the triode was now on a rather better operating point. Also, the anode signal amplitude is less than 1V for full output so no problem there - but why work in a region of comparatively high 2nd harmonic distortion?) With R2 = 22K as given, h.f. open loop bandwidth was less than audio; cutting R2 to 5K6 and with R3 = 1K5, moved it comfortably outside 20 KHz. Another problem to me with the original was some quite over compensation in the NFB line. The square wave rise was severely jagged and a little oscillatory. As a result of the above increase in gain I had to increase R18 from 12K - 18K for the same NFB factor, and decrease C9 down to 68pF before the square wave was almost perfect. (The equivalent capacitor for 12K would have been 100pF, not 200pF.) Those are the points I am wondering about. Not serious audio-wise otherwise there would not have been so many satisfied owners; but the question does beg: Why less than optimal component values? I am also not commenting on an ECC81 being significantly better in the 1st stage; that would be a design change, although I did change to that in one instance. Bulgin caught me rather quickly with this thread; I was going to post square wave pictures of what I am talking about but will have to borrow the amplifier (back) to get those done. (As said, not my own.) So until then, am I missing something? Who else has done this? (Or am I a compulsive tweeker? No - other amps that I have refurbished as was were Quads, Dynacos and Leak TL12s.) Regards. |
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Jakarta
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Quote:
Quote:
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#10 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bandung
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Hi, Ray_moth,
Anda ada hubungan dengan TubeLover Jakarta? Sebetulnya saya mau tanya ini PM, tapi PM anda non-aktif. |
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