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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I am designing with a tube that has two 6.3V filaments. 12.6V vs 6.3V. What way should i go for best sound? What way is easiest?
thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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Easiest depends on your filament supply. Lower currents induce currents into other circuits less.
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Be sure your foil hat has a good low impedance ground. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Hey there,
AC, DC or regulated? 12.6v makes the DC / regulating easier, - less current smaller components and so on. Individually controlling 6.3v to each triode section sometimes helps with the matching between sections. Although I've never tested across an individual tube, I've seen a couple of 6.3v tubes in series (oh dear) where the second tube had only 5v on the heater pins...BTW AK_47_boy. is this a power output tube or a pre-amp tube? how much current are we talking about here? Andy |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
If the tube have separate filaments like 12AX7 there is no harm in connecting them in series, the tube is designed for such operations. I even use 6P3S-E tubes with filaments in series to power them from the same 12.6V source I use to rectify and regulate for small tubes. However, I have to use similar tubes, for example don't mix 6P3S-E and Chinese 6L6GC, but it is not a problem since anyway it is better to use matched tubes in the output stage.
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If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
Maybe I wasn't clear these were separate tubes - both JAN 6922's for the record. Not a combined tube, However it got me (at first) thinking that the same problem might exist in a shared envelope. I know it shouldnt, but. On the tubes I've seen in bits they have 2 separate heaters linked by a bar under the mica. I guess that the 2 heaters are not necesarilly forced to be *identical* but they must be from roughly the same production run - close enough then?Incidentally wavebourn, do you current or voltage regulate? current regulation of multiple tubes in series seems to be logical, although I've never tried it. (and I cant find that reference either!) Cheers Andy |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Its a directly heated thoriated filament output tube.
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Factory rejects out of specs? Quote:
__________________
If I disappear suddenly, that means I finally created a time machine and pushed wrong button that brought me to Stalin's Russia. In any experiment any result is the result. Even if it is negative. |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Finger Lakes, NY
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Quote:
With AC heating, a series connection makes it impossible to null heater supply hum. The best you could do is to ground the center connection between the two filaments. In that case, one end of each would be grounded (obviously) while the other end would be swinging 6.3V. That's the same as applying a 3.15V 60Hz signal between grid and cathode. It makes the amp hum. What you want to do is create a virtual ground at the center point of each filament so that either end is swinging 3.15V and the two ends are out of phase. The grid to cathode voltage (averaged across the entire filament) remains fairly constant thus reducing hum. This is typically accomplished by grounding the CT of the filament transformer, or putting a pair of equal resistors across the filament with the center connection grounded, or using a hum pot with the wiper grounded. -- Dave
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January 20, 2009: Bush's last day |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
![]() I never got a pair with "matched" heaters though in the end I gave up when I got close enough Andy |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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5687 is an example of a tube with heaters allowing series or parallel heater connections.
__________________
Be sure your foil hat has a good low impedance ground. |
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