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Tubelab Discussion and support of Tubelab products, prototypes and experiments

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Old 4th March 2017, 09:55 PM   #21
w5jag is offline w5jag  United States
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Location: Arkansas
OK, here is one way of doing this. Not the only way.

The SSE pictured has had the cathode resistor R17 removed from the board, and a scrap component lead soldered to each pad for R17. The red clip lead attaches to the pad nearest the bypass capacitor; the opposite end attaches to the positive connection of the milliammeter. The yellow clip lead attaches to the negative connection of the milliammeter; the opposite end attaches to one lead of the cathode resistor. The black clip lead connects the remaining lead of the cathode resistor to the ground pad on the pcb.

Current flows in series through the meter, through the cathode resistor, and then to ground. As shown in the picture, the milliammeter directly reads the cathode current.

To do this on the SSE, lift the end of the cathode resistor nearest the bypass capacitor. Solder an insulated wire to that pad and connect the opposite end to the positive terminal of the meter. Connect an insulated wire to the negative terminal of the meter, and solder the opposite end of that wire to the lead of the cathode resistor previously lifted from the board.

If you are lazy, you can cut the lead, and use each end of the lead as a solder point.

If, for some reason, your meter reads backward, reverse the connections at the meter.

If done correctly, and if your meter is undamaged, your amp will work normally and the meter will display the value of the current passing through the tube.

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Old 5th March 2017, 03:28 AM   #22
Fusor is offline Fusor  United States
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Location: Cornville, Iowa
Installing panel meters on an SE
It was stated, "Try putting the meters in series with the cathode resistors of the power tubes". Did you lower the value of the cathode resistor to compensate for your meter's internal resistance? Is your meter robust enough to pass the power tube's current continuously?
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