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Old 26th August 2016, 06:23 PM   #31
wdecho is offline wdecho  United States
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SSE up and running. Some questions.
If I had to guess I would say the CL-140 goes to the center tap to ground of the B+ and the 2 diodes on the B+ rails. Opinions?
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Old 26th August 2016, 06:40 PM   #32
gcom is offline gcom  Ireland
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I don't know which pin numbers are which and I'm not in a position to check them at the moment but here's a shot of the pcb.
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Old 26th August 2016, 07:57 PM   #33
Tubelab_com is offline Tubelab_com  United States
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Quote:
How are these extra parts not shown on the schematic wired in the circuit?
The CL140 goes between the power transformers HV CT and ground.

One diode goes between each HV hot lead (usually red) and the 5AR4 plate with the arrow pointing toward the rectifier tube (in series with the tube, boosting it's PIV rating).

These parts can easily be added to a custom build, or an early PC board build. Simply add a diode to the end of each red wire, cover it with heat shrink, and insert the diode lead into the green connector on the PCB. You can add the CL140 to the CT (red yellow) wire, but do not add shrink wrap to the CL140. Shrink on the solder joint is OK. The CL140 works by self heating, and it does get quite warm. Confining the heat to the part, will make its delay time much shorter, and possibly melt the heat shrink.
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Old 1st September 2016, 09:35 PM   #34
wdecho is offline wdecho  United States
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SSE up and running. Some questions.
Many thanks George. I had the CL-140 pegged right but not the diodes. In a sense we have SS rectification before we get to the tube rectifier. I had a CL-90 laying around along with the UF4007 diodes and installed them into my amp just to be safe. The guy I helped with his build using your board had a rectifier tube to short out by putting jumpers on the 3 part places on the board. He had a time trying to find why his amp would not work and we finally figured out some extra parts were added. I told him to just jumper them since mine was built that way and sure enough it came to life. He is now enjoying the SSE amp immensely with his Jubilee Klipsch speakers and has installed the extra safety parts. I recommended the build to him so I was obligated to help him to get it to working properly. The CL-90 I used has more resistance when cold but I think it should work out well enough. I heated it with a hair dryer before installing and the resistance dropped to 17 ohms which should not have too much effect on the B+.
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Old 8th September 2016, 02:03 PM   #35
gcom is offline gcom  Ireland
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Originally Posted by gcom View Post
I don't know which pin numbers are which and I'm not in a position to check them at the moment but here's a shot of the pcb.
qw

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