Some advise please during the built of my SSE

[Jockaruba]

Hi All,

The built of my SSE has started.
So far so good. The soldering of the PCB has been very easy following the instructions. The high voltage and my lack of experience have given me enough 'respect' to not to try anything before being absolutely sure.
Now I am getting to the point of wiring all the parts and am not sure on some things so hopefully some of you can help me now and with the future questions that will come.

The PCB board is ready.

Now on the connection of the Edcor power connector I have a question what to do with the white and gold wire which is the CT for the brown wire?

Another question is about the supplemental capacitor. The diagram shows a + and - wire but the capacitor doesn't seem, to have a + or - connection. Can I connect it either way then?

Thank you and best regards,
Jock

 

[denny3249]

The "extra" wire is the center tap for your 6.3v heater circuit and it's not used... clip off the bare end, shrink tube or tape the end and tuck it out of the way. With the aux cap, polarity is not an issue, so hook it up either way.

 

[Jockaruba]

Thank you Denny!
Jock

 

[Jockaruba]

Are these connected the right way?
I have the red wire B+ (Edcor) connected to Q3 and blue plate to Q1 in a setup with UL/triode switch.

Thanks and merry X-mas!
Jock

 

[denny3249]

I did this diagram for another poster awhile ago... maybe it'll help in this case too.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[Jockaruba]

Thank you Denny,

Looking also at the other post you referred to I've come to this:

Plate = O1 = Blue
UL =O2 = Striped
B+ = O3 = Red

Almost there, for testing
Jock

 

[denny3249]

The blue wire (Plate) goes to the center connection (O2) of the OPT primary connectors as well as to one side of the Triode/UL switch. The UL stripe wire goes to the other side of the switch. In the posted diagram, O1 is connected to the common of the Triode/UL switch

 

[Jockaruba]

The blue wire (Plate) goes to the center connection (O2) of the OPT primary connectors as well as to one side of the Triode/UL switch. The UL stripe wire goes to the other side of the switch. In the posted diagram, O1 is connected to the common of the Triode/UL switch

Ooopss

That could have gone pretty wrong. Good thing the kids keep me from moving too fast forward.

But now I am a bit confused.
Form the tubelab schedule I see only two wires coming form O1?



Jock

 

[denny3249]

Ok, let's see if this makes more sense... the schematic (I posted) and block diagram (you posted) don't match, so I did some closer looking and your diagram is right. I put the connector numbers on the schematic...the Triode/UL switch common goes to the middle, 02, and blue to 01. I hope this clears up any confusion.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[Jockaruba]

I get it.
Thanks for taking the time to sort it out for me
Jock

 

[Jockaruba]

Testrun yesterday. No smoke or smell. But no sound either. I've than set it up without all the switches and even without the volume pot. Tubes are glowing but no sound still. If the little girls lett me I'll give it another go later.

 

[Jockaruba]

Adding a rectifier switch gave me a short burst of sound followed by a very loud building 'muehhhhhh' like when you disconnect or short the source.
With the rectifier of there nothing except a very silent hum in the speakers.
So the amp is working in a way.

Any suggestions on what to look for?

 

[denny3249]

Could you post a pic or 3 of your set up as it is now.... it might make it a little easier to try to figure out a solution or what to check next....

 

[bibin3210]

Jock,

Did you figured out the issue?

I completed my build two days back and it worked in the first attempt itself. May be you can have a look here for reference. It will be helpful if you can post some close up photos of the PC board.

Thanks,
Bibin

 

[Jockaruba]

Binbin, congrats on your working amp!
Denny here are some pictures.

Yesterday I had some success and got one channel to work. Amazing how much you don't know that you don't know LOL. I had the signal and ground mixed up on the RCA female plugs. I was looking on the internet and I guess the example I found was wrong...

So now I have the left channel working but only with the rectifier switch 'on'. The volume pot works also.
All the tubes are glowing.
The left channel does not work. I hear a very slight hum in the loudspeaker that, if I recall correctly, does not change in volume once I turn the volume up

The pic's right after soldering and how it's all hooked up now.
Best regards,
Jock

 

[spendorite]

Jockaruba, look at your board near your rectifier tube socket you will see three pairs of holes
marked D3, TR1, and D4. It appears that you did not install these three components,
if not then you should place jumpers in these holes.

For a more detailed explanation read this entire thread......

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubelab/266162-simple-se-signal-lost-driver-tube.html

 

[bibin3210]

Thanks Jock.

It appears from the image that you have not used D3, D4 and TR1. It is good to have these components for better life of the rectifier tube.

Also check input connection to the PC board. I think you need to interchange the orange and black wires.

D3, D4 = 1N4007
TR1 = CL140

Thanks,
Bibin

 

[denny3249]

Try swapping the inputs from your volume control around at the board connectors... red to orange; orange to red.... this is to see if the problem is at the board or before the board. As far as the missing diodes (D3; D4) and ICL (TR1), this will cause no output from your rect. tube, but won't affect the output from the hexfreds... I would recommend getting these parts (or the jumpers in their place for now) installed asap as it will allow you to use the rectifier tube circuit to troubleshoot the one working channel problem... in case you have a bad hexfred diode.

 

[bibin3210]

From last image it looks like the Pot wiper is connected to PC board ground.

 

[Jockaruba]

Thanks so far!
I'll be out trying to find the 1N4007 and CL140 (I hope I can find the last one here?)

Some clarification on the last picture. The brown and black wire are soldered together where the black goes into the board and the brown to the rca.

After work I'll switch right and left around.

Best regards,
Jock