I'm getting ready to move my SSE from my test setup (read "big piece of wood with everything screwed to it") to a custom chassis. So far I haven't been using a volume pot, but I've got a PCB mount Alps volume pot that I'm going to use. Is it a bad idea to try and solder the wires to and from the volume pot directly to the leads, rather than purchasing a small PCB for the volume pot? My main concern is whether the solder connections will be mechanically strong enough given that the pot leads don't have any eyes to stick the wires through.
--TWH
--TWH
I'm getting ready to move my SSE from my test setup (read "big piece of wood with everything screwed to it") to a custom chassis. So far I haven't been using a volume pot, but I've got a PCB mount Alps volume pot that I'm going to use. Is it a bad idea to try and solder the wires to and from the volume pot directly to the leads, rather than purchasing a small PCB for the volume pot? My main concern is whether the solder connections will be mechanically strong enough given that the pot leads don't have any eyes to stick the wires through.
--TWH
That's what I've always done, fewer connections in the signsl path. Twist the output wires together.
I always use PCB legs pots; most go into a PCB hole, a few (prototypes, mods, etc.) wired straight.
Never ever a problem at all, just taking a couple small precautions.
Either:
a) just wrap 1 turn of wire around pot pin so you now have "needle with a copper ring around it" ... like in a PCB
... or
b) at least increase contact surface: pre-tin both pot pin and wire tip, put them parallel (instead of at 90 degrees) and melt them together.
As recommended above, heat shrink improves things a lot, not by its own mechanical strength (a weak thin wall soft plastic tube will never compare to a metal to metal soldered together joint) but because it will minimize wire/cable flexing in the future.
Never ever a problem at all, just taking a couple small precautions.
Either:
a) just wrap 1 turn of wire around pot pin so you now have "needle with a copper ring around it" ... like in a PCB
... or
b) at least increase contact surface: pre-tin both pot pin and wire tip, put them parallel (instead of at 90 degrees) and melt them together.
As recommended above, heat shrink improves things a lot, not by its own mechanical strength (a weak thin wall soft plastic tube will never compare to a metal to metal soldered together joint) but because it will minimize wire/cable flexing in the future.
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