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Old 14th June 2014, 05:22 PM   #1
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Default SSE first build, caps and other questions.

I am building my first tube amp, it's exciting and can seem daunting too. I am hoping not to make any costly mistake.

Transformers are Edcor XPWR035 and CXSE25-8-5K.

I intend to do a first build with tube rectification and affordable Sino tubes like 6L6.

I have salvaged caps. Would these do for C1 and C2?:

120uF 400V 105C
150uF 400V 85C

I am not sure about both the voltage rating for peak B+ and the temp rating as 85C seems low.
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Old 14th June 2014, 11:02 PM   #2
PDL is online now PDL  United States
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C1 is the input cap. If you are using tube rectification, it MUST be 47 uf or smaller. Also, you need a higher voltage rating. Don't skimp on the PSU caps, when you're dealing with high voltage just get the right parts.
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Old 15th June 2014, 12:17 AM   #3
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Thanks PDL, I will make an order if nothing appropriate comes up in the salvaged parts box.

How much higher should the voltage rating be?

For now, I have built a chassis from an old DVD Player one, drilled holes for the transformers and now need to file them and protect the wires.
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Old 15th June 2014, 02:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN View Post
Thanks PDL, I will make an order if nothing appropriate comes up in the salvaged parts box.

How much higher should the voltage rating be?

For now, I have built a chassis from an old DVD Player one, drilled holes for the transformers and now need to file them and protect the wires.
Here's an example of a good C1 what many use here.

380LX470M500H012 Cornell Dubilier | Mouser

To answer your question you need at the very least 450v caps @ C1 C2,

aux cap you can get on ebay here:

Run Capacitor 100 MFD 370V Round AC Electric Motor HVAC 370 Vac V Volts 100 Uf | eBay

Note that the 370v in the description is AC volts, you will be running DC after the rectifier and that cap is rated for 370*1.5 (roughly) = 555vdc so good there too.

Alligator clips leads for your multi-meter are your friends with this voltage.



Good luck with your build.

Cheers,
Bob
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Old 17th June 2014, 03:02 PM   #5
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Thanks for pointing those out, Bob.

Yesterday, I took some time to fashion holes for the tubes, using a Dremel. That's far from ideal since the proper tool would have been a hole saw. Instead, I used the circular disc (no good), the stone abrasive (only good for very small areas to sand), and finally settled on the sand drum, one of which is completely eroded now.

The holes aren't very regular so there's more work to do.

I also started to look for the proper resistors to solder on the PCB board. I have a set of 1/4W resistors, but I am not sure I have the others that George prescribed liked the 5W and so on.

In between looking for parts and ordering new ones, I'll continue doing the chassis work. It's the first time I do this, including the metal work. I am more interested in the electronics rather than chassis work, but I still did my own speaker stands, so I am enjoying it more and more.

All terminals are soldered in. I really like that design since there will only be screws to turn rather than more soldering when assembling the system.

The chassis finish is envisioned to be a mix of glossy black and chrome for the upper plate, together with a strip of wood, and the faceplate as well as sides in wood too.

I intend to re-purpose a VCR head assembly as volume knob. This will require a strong bond to the potentiometer shaft.
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Old 17th June 2014, 04:09 PM   #6
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for tube socket holes - this is what works for me. I use these with a cheap Chinese table top drill press but they will work with a hand held drill. Hard to beat a perfect hole there!!

Titanium Nitride Coated Steel Step Drill Bit Set


Cheers,
Bob
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Old 17th June 2014, 06:08 PM   #7
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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This is what I managed today.

Not sure how I could straighten the top plate out, and fairly certain that chrome around here will show the kinks.

Click the image to open in full size.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Chassis 1.jpg (952.5 KB, 532 views)
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Old 17th June 2014, 06:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN View Post
This is what I managed today.

Not sure how I could straighten the top plate out, and fairly certain that chrome around here will show the kinks.
That's going to be difficult. You can try to put a flat piece of hard wood or MDF underneth and use a small hammer to flatten the worst bits. But it won't be perfect. If you're looking for a flawless surface, you may want to start over.

Good luck!

Michael
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Old 17th June 2014, 06:51 PM   #9
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Thanks Michael, will try that.
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Old 18th June 2014, 08:42 PM   #10
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+1 on the stepped drill bit for round chassis holes.
I bought a Milwaukee 2-size set for about $60 and have had great results.

If only they made a square/rectangle one for IEC inlets.....
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