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Old 21st June 2014, 11:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YashN View Post
Hopefully some affordable 6L6GC, and then I'll also need a rectifier tube and another one.
Sovtek 5AR4 for rectifier and Electro-Harmonix KT88 or 5881WXT (6L6 variant) for power tube. They both are at Partsconnexion; prices aren't too bad. I prefer the sound of 5881 old stock but they are more $ than a EH-KT88 which I like VERY much. I think George uses them and recommends them as well. I've had a pair of the EH-kt88s running in various amps for years now still test new.

Cheers,
Bob
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Old 22nd June 2014, 04:15 AM   #22
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Location: The frozen tundra of Cheeseheadland....GO PACKERS !!!
Quote:

For tubes which tube are you thinking about using?? For driver I'd get an old stock 12AT7 - I don't like the sound of the reproduction (12AT7) tubes at all. The old stock sound very good and readily available look for Sylvania they should be in expensive and sound good. You can upgrade them later if you want to roll tubes in. Trust me on the new stock driver tubes they will make the amp sound like crap.

Cheers,
Bob
A +1 on the Sylvania.. I'm using a NOS Sylvania 12AT7 w/black plates and it sounds great.... even better than the Amperex Bugle Boy it replaced. The price wasn't too bad either...
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Old 22nd June 2014, 10:20 AM   #23
cjkpkg is offline cjkpkg  United States
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+1 on the greenlee punch set...I picked up one on eBay with 5 common sizes for $30

Also for front end look at cv4204 it was a UK 12at7 variant...sounds nice.

Power tubes I have tried kt88, 6l6, el34, kt90, but my favorite is tung sol new issue 6550. For some reason I prefer them over the kt88 even.
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Old 22nd June 2014, 11:32 AM   #24
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Hi there,

I was fed up cutting out the hole for the IEC and installed a Neutrik powerCON on my SSE powerCON 20 A - Neutrik
Only a round hole to be drilled and a more secure connector, I think.

Best

Michael
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Old 22nd June 2014, 03:59 PM   #25
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Originally Posted by bobrown14 View Post
I use the cheap Chinese ceramic versions for $2/pc they work fine. There's not going to be a sonic different between a $2 socket and a $10 gold pin ...
Makes total financial sense, Bob, and that's why I thought PartsConnexion's sockets were quite expensive, so ceramic they will be.
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Old 22nd June 2014, 04:03 PM   #26
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobrown14 View Post
Sovtek 5AR4 for rectifier and Electro-Harmonix KT88 or 5881WXT (6L6 variant) for power tube. They both are at Partsconnexion; prices aren't too bad. I prefer the sound of 5881 old stock but they are more $ than a EH-KT88 which I like VERY much. I think George uses them and recommends them as well. I've had a pair of the EH-kt88s running in various amps for years now still test new.
Sovtek 5AR4 as rectifier, noted. I also think that if I can get a real affordable Telefunken rectifier that would be great too.

Bob, for the KT-88, do you know about some people saying they are more suited to the smaller Edcors instead of mine (CXSE-25-8-5K)?

I'll be trying to avoid losing anything in the higher-frequency bands. For great bass, I envision having a subwoofer output as well, so any information on this is helpful too.
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Old 22nd June 2014, 04:08 PM   #27
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Thanks for the tube recommendations all, so far I noted these:

1. Rectifier: Sovtek 5AR4 (or Telefunken)
2. Driver: NOS Sylvania 12AT7 (or Telefunken)
3. Power: not sure here EL34, 6L6, KT88?
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Old 22nd June 2014, 04:17 PM   #28
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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Default Initial test fit for transformer and PCB holes.

With un-sanded black coats:, checking if the holes are large enough for all transformer wires and not abrasion occurs, if the screw holes are well-placed, and if the PCB holes are well-placed:

Click the image to open in full size.

3/4 shot:

Click the image to open in full size.

Back shot:

Click the image to open in full size.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Chassis 6.jpg (1.01 MB, 190 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 7.jpg (1,021.8 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis 8.jpg (1,014.4 KB, 120 views)
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Old 23rd June 2014, 03:43 PM   #29
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For those big Edcors I use EH-KT88 you wont loose anything on the top end and will have enough bass for use without a sub if you main speakers are worthy. George designed this amp to give you full range. Be sure to add in the supplemental cap - you can get that at Partsconnexion as well. For the supplemental cap I like to use 100uF oil filled motor run caps (slightly smaller than soda can size ) - get them on ebay for $15 plus ship - for a big poly cap from Partsconnexion gonna get pricey.

Motor Run caps I use:
Run Capacitor 100 MFD 440V Round AC Electric Motor HVAC 440 Vac V Volts 100 Uf | eBay

The 440v rating is AC volts - this will be ~660vdc easily so no problem.

A Telefunken 5AR4/GZ34 is going to set you back a hundred or more dollars - save your money and get a Sovtek 5AR4. You can always upgrade tubes later. If you want to get a QUALITY driver 12AT7 - look for the triple mica versions. Again the Telefunken versions are $150 per tube and the GE 5 star versions are $15 or so, gonna be hard to justify the extra $130 for Telefunken. Not a big fan of Teles due to pricing, I have some I'm hording tho. I like the triple mica versions - triple mica is there for extra support to help keep microphonics (noise) to a minimum. Many manufacturers make the triple mica versions. Just don't waste your money on new stock as there are sooo many old stock out there that are much better sounding.

What I usually do is get a cheap set of tubes and build the amp, upgrade the tubes after I have a working amp. there's always a possibility you could smoke an expensive set of tubes with a wiring mistake during build/testing ... hard to do with the SSE but possible.


Cheers,
Bob
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Old 23rd June 2014, 10:00 PM   #30
YashN is offline YashN  Canada
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For sure, I'll try to do a first build with affordable tubes only as budget precludes experimenting with very expensive ones. Looks like Telefunken 5AR4s are out of reach...

How about this one?:

Telefunken 12AT7
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